Leaderboard

If the song is much louder, it means that it was the wrong track. Example 1: You are playing a song with a -7db bass line. And you set your gain with a (for example) -3db track. Think of it that your amp now has a +3db amplification. But +3db -7db from the song still leaves you with a -4db deficit in output power from the amp. Example 2: You are playing a song with a -5db bass line(Typical of "decaf" music). And you set your gain with a -5db track. Your amp now has a +5db amplification. -5db from the song +5db amplification from the amp nets out to be -0db -- you are getting full power out of the amp without clipping. Example 3: You are playing a song with a -5db bass line. And you set your gain with a -10db track. Your amp now has a +10db amplification. -5db from the song +10db amplification nets out to be +5db. Since you cannot exceed 0db, you are now 5db into clipping. I can get a picture if you would like, but what that means is you are clipping fairly significantly

Set according to your old school tracks and turn down the sub level on your head unit a few notches when you play decaf

Wattage out depends in things beyond just the gain setting. Eliminating electrical and reactive load from the explanation, all those do is give you a gain setting based on a given musical amplitude. Its up to you to decide which tone to use. When done properly, they should all put out the same power because you picked the proper track based on your listening needs. Using a -0 db track when you listen to rock will leave so much head room that you'll never see any power out of the amp. Using -10 when listening to decaf will give you a clipped signal. Make sense? There is no hard and fast answer because there is more than the amplitude of the dd-1's tracks to consider

everything sundown puts out is more that advertised. 5000D is a beast, and so are the X series subs, but i would personally look for a beefier subwoofer for close to 3000w a piece. but this raises the reason i put that quote in red, that 5k is going to pull a lot of current, do you have a high output alt, few runs of 1/0, and probably 3 or so nice sized AGMs? Im going to redo the electrical system (for the audio atleast, big three etc...) , 1/0 is a must. How high should i go with the alternator 300 amp? and then i was thinking of doing two Xs power batteries and then the battery for the truck. Everyone continues to say to do "a few runs" of 1/0. I still don't quite understand what this means and how it would be done? a few runs means 3 lengths of 1/0 AWG car audio wire, from the front battery to the rear batteries.

RF T2 subs are very good, but imo the sundown x is better. I still run RF amps and they are beasts. I'd go RF amps and sundown subs in you situation . The cool thing about RF amps is the CP the amp puts out near the same power 1 ohm or 2. I've run RF amps for 20 plus years, well there was a couple of MTX years the early us ones, but never had one fail. Yeah I would do the same thing if I was looking for new subs.

This^^ Sonic wants $750 for a T2 SSA wants $350 for the X $530 for a ZV4

Id take sundown over RF anyday.. Great products, and great customer service.

I think its safe to say the "X" will undoubtedly outperform the "T2".

To be honest it's going to be impossible to say how hard it will hit. It's going to be dependent on the entire install, type of car, enclosure, etc... Look at how much space you have, figure out what you want to do (spl, sq, geared towards comp or daily). Look at what you want to accomplish and then pick your subs, pick your amp, and have at it. There are a ton of great audio companies out there that work within the power you're wanting to run. Do research, watch vids, and look at builds. Once you figure what equipment you're going to run ask specific questions about your install if you need help. Whenever you ask for comparisons you're going to get people who lean both ways unless it's definitely a shitty company. Are you going to be doing everything yourself?

Whenever you run wire from one place or another you can run another wire right beside it. It increases the amount of current that travels from one point to another. That's what they mean by multiple runs.

Makes way to much sense. I am game to try it

Well I mean you got n8 Kylar snd snow drifter in this thread. They are all way smarter then me but I don't see why my suggestion wouldn't work logically. And if you have LC1's connected you can easily use the dd1 to find where (-5) would be on your lc1 while turning it up... Make a little mark on it and don't turn it up past that point when your playing decaf. And so on and so forth. Hope that helps.

I can do 2 settings. easy enough to do. I will have 3 LC-1's, high's, midbass, and subs. I will be powering under the rms rating of my subs.

This is what i do. I use the -7.5 tone. And then when i play decaf, i use my knob. Knowing my gear, and what to look for, (i watch my voltage, it tells me what i need to know) and go ham. Do i get things hot? sure,... Ive never in my life blown a sub though. Never.

It might also be useful spot set gains according to your max distortion point on the headunit at those higher levels to satisfy your 80's music... Then leave those gain settings (a LC1 might be helpful here) Then put on the -5db track and with those same gain settings, roll up the volume till you see distortion. Now you have two different max volumes for your two different genre of music that are recorded at different db levels. Snows answers are way better then mine but I believe mine might be useful sir.

Are you planning to stick to a pair of 12s? If so, I'd say get some zv4 12s and a Sundown 5k. You'd be pretty happy with that if everything else is already up to par (electrical and whatnot). As for honest reviews, I love Sundown products. I've ran a lot of their gear; sae12000, saz1500, saz2000, sa12s, sa15s, e8v3s, Saz3000, sa8s, sa8v2s, zv3/x's. I've never had any issues and Jacob/Brian/Debbie were always helpful when I needed advice or customer service. Great products and even better customer service.

Yes, but the thing about music is it's dynamic. So even if the peak of the wave is -3db, the average for the song may be -10db. So tuning to -5db could work out. That is why any tool for setting gains are not fool proof, they are tools that help. You still have to use your brain when using your equipment.

deal is still on for anyone who wants to do it...

Got to have a look at the car yesterday. That beaver saw-toof jigsaw baffle looks better then most of ya with a jasper jig so sit back down and keep taking notes

me either! but i gotta wait 30 days before DC gets them and even then i don't know what my cost will be. I am 90% sure i am using DC amps. My pocket book will determine what i ACTUALLY run. People think i gotta free ride and ummm that is just NOT true. I should by now (by some company) but it still has not happened. I get discounts and a few freebies here and there but definitely no free rides.

That things gonna implode under full power.

well this test would be pointless, since you set your gain to what you music's maximum amplitude is. IF you play basslines that reach -5 db, you set it with -5 db. why this test is pointless, is because you arent going to play a -5db bassline and set it with -10 and gain wattage, you might gain some wattage, but it will be extremely clipped. the only way this test would hold ground is to play a -10db tone, set it with 0db, check how much wattage you get, set it with -5 and check how much wattage, and then lastly set it with the proper -10 and see what you get, which at -10 with a -10 tone would be maximum gain or on the dyno max rms power.

0dB is your full output with no attenuation. 3dB is double/half power. -5dB is 5dB lower then full output. So well less then half the power.

what about keeping a wet cell battery upfront to start the car and run maybe a 4 channel on it and a bank of AGM's in the back for the sub amps (cheaper than buying a AGM for upfront) But why do that? Just get an AGM for the front. I know you might be on a budget, but find another way. Consider the cost of an isolator vs. selling your front battery and buying an AGM. Or either downsizing or eliminating the rear battery altogether