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Purchased an iPod from knowledge, shipped it very quickly. Arrived well packaged and he even threw in 2 huge bullet tweeters. I was wondering why my iPod weighed 5 pounds lol

I'm kind loud..lol will be after the rebuild depending on where, I'd be down to drive for a meet

Thank you for taking the time to leave feedback I really appreciate it and makes it easier on me to sell !! Enjoy the amp!

yeah dude that was my goal entirely be loud but still be daily driven because I travel w/my kids to shows & such, it can be done & looks better to able to keep it that way....

Yeah, I really liked that its a daily driver, you and that blazer were both daily drivers (yours may be a bit more practical though) .... I mean anyone can throw money at a car and pack it with subs and amps but how many can make vehicles they use for more then boomin. That's why I liked yours a lot. I mean like Brian's civic or navids expedition are both painful, but that's the only thing they can do with those cars. I'm trying to implement this into my build. My goal is to be able to still hide it all until I fold down my rear seat and also keep my box small enough to get to my spar tire with out taking the box out. You know what I mean by practical?

Swordlords1234 on YouTube. Got plenty of slamfest videos. Anyone who doubts the lows your system puts out can watch my video. It distorted my digital video.... Lol, you'll see

Price for Level 2 12" and Level 3 12" shipped to 85735

Please do it dude were counting on you! Foresure its only like a 30min drive for me. Should i just ask for permission to take part of the parking lot and have a bbq? Ya permission for about 10 of us to have a car meet where we'll demo our builds and have a very small BBQ for a few hot dogs and hamburgers. Prob from 6-10pm?

This. Set a date and location, and people can plan for it.

This is a piece that is overlooked by so many when tuning a system. If something isn't set right, the blame always goes to the sub and amp when in reality the line driver is probably the cause. That was the reason I made these videos. I had a shop installer tell a customer that his 1.2k and level 2 were bad because, 1- he didn't know how to properly tune the system or 2- he is a shady mother fucker and just wanted to sell the jl product he carried instead of correctly setting up the equipment supplied by the customer. The piece in question was an audio control lc2i. The installer told me that the amp would distort at ANY gain level. WTF! Had no clue what I was talking about when I asked him what the input voltage was from the line driver to the amp. (MAJOR RED FLAG) My customer believed him since he is the shop installer and is supposed to know what he is talking about. He sent his 1.2k and sub back in to be tested just to find out that nothing is wrong with either. These basics were one of the first things that I learned when I got serious about car audio, thanks to this site. I find it fucking pathetic that an experienced installer can't get something like this right and cost his customer money by having him send the equipment back to be tested. An installer should know the basics and be able to at least get the settings close. But as an installer you are only as good as the tools you use. Steve and Tony are providing the industry with the proper tools to make installing/tuning aftermarket car audio very simple and easy to understand. Every shop should have these tools in their tool box!

I just wanted to say Kyle, and his wife Laura are great people and great sellers. There are no worries on my end that the product will get to me in the condition that was described. I just wanted to say thank you again Kyle and Laura you are super sellers for a reason.

First stereo system. Two 10inch DC level 4,and 1,200 watt amp how much, zip 98311 Was.

a little teaser video. Its about as much as i can show at this time...i can't wait to upload my vids. You guys have all seen the hairtricks, phone book rips etc but the glass window pane breaking was pretty cool. That is the one i can't wait to show

nope...planning on keeping the price around $69 with the bezel. and thats why we love the SMD and D-Amore products.

Source: http://svconline.com/proav/coil_understanding-thiele-small-parameters/ Understanding Thiele-Small Parameters The Thiele-Small (T-S) parameters are commonly used by engineers to define the relationship between a speaker and a particular enclosure. But they can also provide some measures describing loudspeaker components that defy marketing interpretation. The Thiele-Small (T-S) parameters are commonly used by engineers to define the relationship between a speaker and a particular enclosure. But they can also provide some measures describing loudspeaker components that defy marketing interpretation. Here are some of the more useful T-S parameters and what they mean: Fs: The free-air resonant frequency of a speaker. In general, a lower Fs indicates a woofer that would be better for low-frequency reproduction than a woofer with a higher Fs. Re: The DC resistance of the driver measured with an ohm meter. This measurement will almost always be less than the driver's nominal impedance. Le: The voice coil inductance measured in millihenries (mH). The industry standard is to measure inductance at 1kHz. As frequencies get higher there will be a rise in impedance above Re because the voice coil is acting as an inductor. Thus, the impedance of a speaker is not a fixed resistance, but changes as the input frequency changes. Maximum impedance (Zmax) occurs at Fs. Q parameters: Measurements related to the control of a transducer's suspension when it reaches the resonant frequency (Fs). The suspension must prevent any lateral motion that might allow the voice coil and pole to touch (damaging the loudspeaker). Qms is a measurement of the control from the speaker's mechanical suspension system (the surround and spider). Qes is a measurement of the control from the speaker's electrical suspension system (the voice coil and magnet). Qts is the “Total Q” of the driver. In general, Qts of 0.4 or below indicates a transducer well-suited to a vented enclosure. Qts between 0.4 and 0.7 indicates suitability for a sealed enclosure. Qts of 0.7 or above indicates suitability for free-air or infinite baffle applications. Cms: The “compliance” of the suspension in a particular speaker. Cms is a measurement of its stiffness measured in meters per Newton. Vd: The Peak Diaphragm Displacement Volume, or the volume of air the cone will move. It is calculated by multiplying Xmax (voice coil overhang of the driver) by Sd (surface area of the cone). Vd is noted in cc. The highest Vd figure is desirable for a sub-bass transducer. BL: Expressed in Tesla meters, this is a measurement of the motor strength of a speaker. Think of this as how good a weightlifter the transducer is. The formula is mass in grams divided by the current in amperes. A high BL figure indicates a very strong transducer that moves the cone with authority. Mms: The combination of the weight of the cone assembly plus the “driver radiation mass load.” The weight of the cone assembly is easy: it's just the sum of the weight of the cone assembly components. The driver radiation mass load is the weight of the air (the amount calculated in Vd) that the cone will have to push. Xmax/Xlim: Short for Maximum Linear Excursion. Speaker output becomes nonlinear when the voice coil begins to leave the magnetic gap. Although suspensions can create nonlinearity in output, the point at which the number of turns in the gap (see BL) begins to decrease is when distortion starts to increase. Sd: This is the actual surface area of the cone, normally given in square cm.