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getting close to having the wall done and wired up on 5 of the small amps( swaping to 5x 2500w rms amps in the near future , still need to seal it to the b pillars and other work but i got plenty of time before the next comp

progress is slow but i got the port cut and in today for testing and 3 out of the 5 sub amps installed its enough for some low power testing /checking making sure the enclosure doesnt have anything loose etc hopefully ill have enough time this weekend to get all 5 wired up and playing

Sorry I've been MIA. As for the 74AH pro I'm not sure you should get it. I'm second guessing my purchase already and I cant send it back. I'm still going to try and use it but i wish I would have done more research. Apparently these cells have a really narrow voltage range. It might work for me but I'm still a ways off from testing them out. ----------------UPDATE 2/25/24--------- I decided to revamp my system entirely. I sold everything from my old car except 2 SA x-8's, my SIA2500.1d, and my wiring. I got rid of my Infinity Kappa 3-ways and purchased Infinity Kappa Perfect 3-ways. The new setup is as follows Helix M Four DSP running my tweets and Midrange 2 Sound Digital 800.4's running my midbass, center channel, and rear speakers SIA2500.1d running 2 SA X-8v.4's - 2ohm's @ 2000watts - Also contemplating building a T-line enclosure for these Also I decided to do custom a-pillars. So on with that! These are my Infinity Kappa 300m midranges all taped up and ready to be trimmed. The two things i dislike about these are that the mounting tabs add an inch of width and they don't come with grills. Gonna have to fix that. Left one trimmed, on the right you can see the problem. These are some funky a pillar pods I found on amazon. I'll still need to do some fiberglassing and trimming once my second set of a-pillars come in. Not gonna modify the originals. Thank you skar audio for the sacrificial grill Fit's but is not done. This is a tinner's hammer hammer. Time to shape some metal Not perfect but you can see what I'm going for. A can of zyn fit's nicely to help with the shaping Also had some steel round mesh from another project So I decided to try that as well Side - by - side of the two grill options Now for the tweeters. The flush mounts we too big so originally I was going to use these. But it looks hideous and bug-eyed. So I trimmed one of the flush-mounts to fit. And ditched the black grill. The steel looks better imo, especially when matching the tweeter. There's still a lot I need to do to these. Currently the grill is sitting on the midrange surround so I need to fix that, and the pods still need to be fiber glassed to the a-pillars and covered with some kid of material. But that is for another day.

closer , waiting ont he first 2 baffle layers to dry and then i can glue this one to those and install it for real

getting the inner shell done tonight

Who remembers when I use to post my "REALTIME" videos? Well they are coming back

getting older sure does suck

recoil has new amps coming amp ill be getting 3x of the 2500's to replace the 1200's , i also did start to deaden the doors got the driver side door outer skin done today , hoping to get one door done each day , i think im going to get some 150 mil stuff to do the inner panel with instead of using the 394mil stuff on that as well

Joe X design is a good ported box. Corner 45s don't do much for a subwoofer box besides brace it and eat up internal volume. If you wanted a similar design with a bit more internal volume then I do have one free on youtube. Feel free to do basically whatever with it. You could also try to design a mass loaded transmission line with offset driver/stub. It's basically a lot like a ported box but attempts to cancel resonance in the enclosure to give more bandwidth.

I would definitely look into seat lift kits to fit a box of proper size for those subs, make that enclosure with 3/4" birch wood, dual layer for the baffle, proper bracing inside, specs are 4 cubic feet net 64 square inches of port area tuned to 32Hz, I believe the sub cutouts need to be 7.34". Depending on how much space you find to work with I could fine tune that spec to increase output and low end extension as possible.

I did not go the LOC route. I have a helix Dsp with high level input. And yes that was the only issue I had. We even adjusted the internal resistance of the DSP. Otherwise it would have been perfect im definitely lucky on having an easier time to get an aftermarket headunit with trim plate

The Audio Control is the right path for the cars with the infotainment systems. I am in the process of doing this exact same thing in my VW GTI and will be using the Audio Control LC6i. I used this in the previous version of VW that I had without issue and was pleased with the results. If you want to take it a step further by using the DM-810 that would be an awesome processor to add to the system to give you full active control. They can be a bit to tune, but well worth the effort as the result will give you the best possible sound to your liking.

Some 56 square inches of total port area, two ports half that number for each port.

You just need to make sure your subs do not go over Xmax at the operating power, but since your amplifier exceeds by far the RMS of your subs you will have to be very careful not going too far, generally oversized enclosures and sub overpowering in a hazardous mix with a very likely outcome of subs mechanical damage so you need to set the gain of the amp not to the clipping point but rather lesser that the subs can can tolerate. You can find maximum power in a similar way as before, in WinISD up power until Xmax is reached in the enclosure size you chose and you can clamp the amp to roughly reach that power and set gains accordingly so you can't go over the limit on normal use.

The new swr 12d4 will work on smaller boxes than previous versions, to determine the volume to use enter both the old and new models in winISD and change the volume of the new version to approximately match the curve the 2.1 cubes plot of the old one you have and use the same port area you had in your old box. Of course you need to check the excursion plot at the power you intend to use your new subs to be within Xmax, now you can build to the specs you just obtained.

Haven't been here in a minute. I hope everyone is doing well and having a great start to the new year!

Correct. The reason for so many is due to some people using multiple runs of power wire from the front of the vehicle to the back. In my truck for example I have 9 positive runs of 1/0 and 9 negative runs of 1/0 (18 total) coming from my 3 alts under the hood to the back batteries. So when people have larger systems with over 1600amps worth of alternator charging, multiple 5,000+ watt rms amps, etc one single run of 1/0 or even 4/0 coming from under the hood simply cant handle the current load. Now take into consideration of the length of said wire which reduces its current rating, resistance and voltage drop in the wire, hell even if you're pulling the maximum current limit from whatever wire you're running your going to have to factor in heat and even more resistance. So that is why there's multiple spots for additional wires to be connected so you can adapt to your needs and overcome obstacles and restrictions in the wire. Hopefully that helps.

The Skar Audio RP 1500.1D 1500W RMS amp which has been tested to do rated power requires a 120A fuse. So your amp simply does not do rated power at all just looking at the fuse it uses. And the fact that your 60A fuse in the power line never blows just gives you an idea how little power you are actually running looking at the math Power = 120A x 13V = 1560W or just above the power rating. For 60A fuse: Power = 60A x 13V = 780W which never blows so you not even that (you don't even need electrical upgrades at this power). Factoring in amplifier efficiency at 60A you would be delivering about 300W to each driver but again not even that. I am going to guess you are actually delivering 200W to each 1250W driver or barely moving. If you are comfortable at that level you could just leave it like that but what needs to be done to get those subs moving is a new amp and an electrical to match, a cheap amp that does 2500W RMS is the D4S JP23 1.5 which is 299 and is ideal for systems with light electrical upgrades.

I just built my last rig not to long ago and I am already at it again. The reason I chose the parts for the last build was due to not having a mainboard that could support my new 5gig Fiber internet. There wasn't many boards in the latest gen at the time that had what I needed. You can see that build here **** This link below is the OLD 11th Gen build that is now my VR rig, you can see the NEW 14th gen if you keep scrolling**** While that build worked GREAT, I also have another issue. I have a Valve Index VR setup. My main PC runs 3 monitors and every time I want to use VR I have to unplug display ports and restart the PC. When I am done I have to plug it all back in and restart the PC again. And then after that I have to reset my monitor configuration because it flips out when I start making changes like that. Easy to put back, but a pain none the less. I just want to pick the headset up and use it without all that drama. So I decided I wanted a PC dedicated JUST for my VR. My first choice was a gaming laptop. I have one I use all the time that has an RTX 2070 in it. I plugged it in and it works pretty good (for VR). The only problem is for fast games like VR racing, it is pretty weak. Not anywhere near the quality of my PC. So I decided to build another gaming rig instead that I can dedicate to that. While trying to figure out what I was going to use for the build, I decided that my "old" rig from March (2023) with the 11th gen could be the perfect tower instead and I can build a NEW NEW for my main rig instead. I also have a spare RTX 3090 not being used that I spent $2500 on during covid lockdown. So my VR PC will be my "old" PC with a 3090 in it and I will take my 4090 and put it in the new rig since it is still the latest card. A little confusing but it might make sense by the time I am done with both of them. New build: CORSAIR iCUE 7000X RGB Full-Tower ATX MSI Meg Z790 Godlike Max Motherboard EVGA Supernova 1600 P+, 80+ Platinum 1600W PS Intel Core i9 14900k Corsair H150i Elite Capellix Liquid Cpu cooler 128G Corsair Vengeance DDR5 Asus ROG Strix RTX 4090 OC Edition GPU Samsung 990 Pro m.2 2TB (main) Samsung 990 Pro m.2 2TB Samsung 990 Pro m.2 2TB (3) Alienware 38" 3840x1600 @ 144hz 1ms (in Surround mode @ 11520x1600) I g

Jesus my guy. Come play some warzone with me. Edit- my next buy is a 240 (plus) Hz oled. Maybe the Rog rig. Not sure. May wait a tick. Monitors are just getting sooooo good. But, i want a rad oled thats wicked fast. Just 2 g7 240hz (27 and 32 inch) here. I want a nice oled.

Done!

I still cant get over how huge those 4090s are LOL. Like putting an cinderblock on your motherboard.

dueling gaming pc’s 😁 I networked the drives so I can use the “older” pc as a storage server also. Win! The one on the left is the previous PC but with an RTX 3090 in it. The 4090 was migrated over to the new tower.

Yes that was the one to get (didn't know about the V2) will be much better off than with a full bridge, except for the size, let us know how you got it done, don't know if a seat lift can help making room for all the stuff you want there and the amp. Also hopefully you don't get another D1 sub by itself and save yourself from some headaches.

I haven't looked into their sub parameters to see if they are good. I can only suggest to get someone to design an enclosure for you (or go with a program that can give you data back on how the box will theoretically perform). I have a tough time when people go with general port areas and ratios. Just because it plays doesn't mean it's right or optimal.

You can also setup your gains low making sure power delivered is within drivers specs. No one is to say if that distorted signal will make any difference, It's all about being prepared to prevent a bad outcome. Much luck and if you have any other questions let us know.

You can wire the second battery in parallel to the existing battery. The main concern typically is the difference in battery technology (lead acid as OEM and AGM for aftermarket). In reality, there isnt anything special you need in between the stock battery and the new AGM. The only suggestion I would make is in a few years when the stock fails (due to age and use), to replace it with a like in kind battery to the AGM. Your battery wont get "too much charge". Alternators only output to what they are asked. If you arent blasting music, they will have a low output to supply the bare minimum the car is asking for (A/C, lights, radio, etc.) and when you crank the volume it will output more as it sees a larger "load" and output as much as it can up to 220a to do whatever it can to try to maintain good voltage.

got all the bracing in and done and reinstaleld the front baffle its now permantly attached and sealed , while i was at it i decided to invert the top center sub just for looks , not sure if im going to leave it inverted hence why i just pulled the speaker wire out of the port to hook it up for now . the motor is dangerously close to drivers and passenger heads , im a lil owrried somone might smack there head on it in an accident or say in an panic/emergency braking situation so not sure if im going to leave it inverted, ill do some testing with it this way in 2 days when the glue and edhesives i used are fully cured

getting really close now

The subsonic (high pass) is generally 4th order not 2nd order filter in most amps so it will need to be set higher to better control excursion, also, WinISD doesn't account for cabin gain so your frequency response just show how the box will play outdoors. But you can still compare your plot with a 4.75 net box tuned to 29Hz (the prefab) to see how much are you expected to gain, that actually is useful information you might be interested in.

There is a thread, though it maybe buried now that has a bunch of radios that people tested with the dd-1 for max undistorted volume. you will probably have to search for it though. If the radio is not showing distortion direct through the rca's or while attached to an amp with the gain at 0 when you use a 0db tone for 40hz and 1000hz then it is safe to say the radio is distortion free at max volume through the rca preouts. In that case then set your amp(s) using your desired overlap -5, -10, etc db level at the maximum headunit volume. You could use a lower volume if you really wanted but it won't change much except the fact that the radios preout voltages (5 volts as you said in your case) typically wont be achieved unless the volume is all the way up. So if your volume goes to 40 and its clean at 40 you will get 5 volts preout voltage, but say if it goes to 40 but you set it to 20 to tune your amps then your rca preout voltage will only be 2.5volts or there abouts which will require you to increase the gain on the amp to compensate for that lower signal due to having lesser preout voltage. So you should just use the max cleanest volume.

i have a Alpine 9887 and a scope, the RCA outs dont clip at full volume. the internal amp clips at volume 21 out of 35

You need to specify what's your vehicle, what is the sub model the box specs and some pictures if possible. Looks like a box issue, installing a DSP could help flatten your response but not the other issues, in some situations inverting the phase of the signal to the subs can help some cancellation issues, other times box location / sub, port firing direction etc can help. try what is suggested and if you still not get results then provide the details I asked about above.

WHATS UP EVERYONE NEW MEMBER HERE. IM JOING THE FORUM TO DOCUMENT MY BUILD AND FOR ANY HELP AND/OR TIPS ANYONE CAN GIVE ME AS THIS IS MY FIRST "OFFICIAL" BUILD. REALLY AIMING FOR SQ I THINK ON THIS NOT REALLY SURE SINCE EL CAMINOS ARE SO COMPACT ON THE INSIDE ANY SUB WILL SOUND GREAT AND LOUD AS HELL LOL. BEFORE REDOING THE SYSTEM I HAD 2 3.5 speakers in the dash, 2 tweeters on the A pillars and a 12in p2 behind the seat. NOW IM LOOKING TO DO IT RIGHT SO BELOW IS EVERYTHING IM PLANNING ON RUNNING. SO FAR THE ONLY THING I HAVEN'T DECIDED ON IS THE NEW AMP FOR MY SUBS AND THE MIDS THAT I'LL BE RUNNING IN MY DASH ANY SUGGESTIONS ARE GREATLY APPRECIATED. A Pillar: 2 - tweeters from morel maximo comp set (ran active) DASH: 2 - 3.5in Speakers Mid (Ran Active) DOOR PANELS(ea.): 2 Morel Maximo 6 comp Ran active (only will use one set of tweeters which will be Ran to the A Pillars) Subwoofers: 2 Alpine S-W10d4 DSP: Dayton Audio DSP AMPS: Dash and Tweeters: 4/2 channel Undecided Door Panels: Pioneer Gm-Dx874 1200w 4ch I WILL RUN ALL THE DOOR SPEAKERS AS 4ohm unless it's convenient to wire them parallel and run them as 2ohm saving me two channels to use for the dash and only needing a compact 2ch for my tweeters SUBWOOFER: Rockford Fosgate 5001xd AS OF RIGHT NOW ILL RUN THEM IN PARALLEL SO THAT ITS 2ohm AND GETTING 600 RMS BUT THATS REALLY UNDERPOWERING IT IMO. LOOKING FOR A A MONO BLOCK THATS ABOUT A 1000watt rms Also here's a link to the box i made online im thinking of building as is fits right into the Elcos smuggler box. Is it a good design? thinking of making a new one but the design won't have the sub facing the back of the seat they'll be facing into the smuggler box and im unsure how that will sound and play into effect because i'm planing on having one of these boxes on each side of the smuggler box in the corner (for sq). https://subbox.pro/en/b/4tisUQAUi

If you have a subpar electrical you can go with this: Rockford Fosgate Power T1500-1BDCP It will give you like 1200W at 4 ohm and close to 2K at 2 ohm, it is expensive unfortunately but it can work on bad electrical also fits 4AWG cable. There are cheaper alternatives, Taramps smart 3 bass and the SIA series from sundown BUT full bridge amps need costly perfect electrical, 12.5 V minimum under max load or these amps can get damaged. These type of amps better leave alone in entry level systems.

Not sure if I am OG but life has been rough. Glad to be glancing around once again though.

Yes, you can and should use the DD-1 on your DSP as well. Treat your DSP as a headunit, use the 0db tone and the appropriate tone for the appropriate channel outputs (IE, 1khz for front/rear dedicated dsp outputs, and 40hz for dedicated sub outputs on your dsp), this way you have the maximum clean a/c voltage output from your DSP. Also make sure all EQs on the DSP are flat when doing this as well! Now the one thing to be careful of is the a/c voltage output, you don't want to set it higher than your amps inputs can handle, so after tuning with the DD-1 you may want to check the rca a/c voltage output of the DSP because the DSP can and will take your 4v rca signal and turn it into 6-9+ volts output. So if your amps can only handle a 5volt input then you will want to back the voltage down some on the DSP, and then go and match voltage for each output. Then use the DD-1 on your amplifiers using the appropriate tones with your desired gain overlap setting (-5db, -10db, etc). I think my Audison Bitone DSP was putting out 11.7 volts clean when tuned with my DD-1 but I backed all the levels down to 4.5volts that I verified with my multimeter and then I have my amp gains up about 1/8, its very very little.

I'm still alive...... and still an asshole!