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Status Updates posted by WalledSonic
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http://www.passivecrossovers.com/index.htm
Best and most concise introduction to audio i've found in the last 2 years of reading stuff every day.
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O-scopes. My EE buddy recommended this one: https://www.tequipment.net/Rigol/DS1054Z/Digital-Oscilloscopes/?v=7401
Any experts in here have a recommendation? Thanks in advance.
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No expert but if you need it just for car audio this one's very cheap:
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What's that one?
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DSO Nano v1
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Been so busy lately doing shit I dont want to do. I just want to rip the car apart and go ham on the design. I love audio and I fucking love designing shit.
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Designed my ported box in TermLab. Calculation and measurement while I built the box is telling me I'm tuned to 33Hz. Used an IM-SG to confirm box tuning is actually 26Hz. Perceptively, I thought 33Hz really was the tuning frequency, but I was mistaking it for the onset of cabin gain (Starting around 32Hz and dropping around 48Hz).
Lesson learned: calculations are approximations, and tuning frequency of a box is hard to discern by ear once its in the car. Max port velocity and minimum excursion is what I should have been paying more attention to.
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Great read. Its more than a manual for an amp, it also has tons of great info for installs, in general.
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Heading to Calgary for a conference later this week. Any recommendations on things to do?
I wont be there for the weekend, but I would love to cut away from my group... Everyone is like 15+ years older than me at this event.
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Loud bass pulse and amp goes to protect. Thinking RCAs bc i was messing with them when it first happened, but cant think of why that would cause a problem.
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Yep loose RCAs near the bass knob were popping the amp with spike voltage and sending it to protect. I’d like to thank my DMM for helping me diagnose that so quickly haha
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meh, chatbox was weak anyway. Site traffic is low and no one is ever on at the same time. Like trying to have a conversation with 6 hour gaps in between comments.
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Redoing rear disc conversion. ZZP sent me a new rear caliper. Last time, the right rear caliper kept locking up. I could manually push/screw it in, but i'd go drive and it would lock up.
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Ive read about colapsed lines, but this car only has 38kmi on it. I guess we'll find out in couple hours
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if the drums operate as they should with no other changes other than swapping to a caliper and bleeding... its definitely a fault in the caliper. a bad piston seal would lead to a visible leak. it may be a minute possibility, but it's possible that the flow port where the brake fluid enters on the caliper could be slightly over bored and overwhelming that piston with a higher pressure of fluid. just a thought tho. hope the new one works just fine!
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New setup is working great. 4 wheel disc
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What are yall looking forward to this wkend? Certainly yall have cool shit going on.
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beer and sanding
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Beer and kitchen flooring,.. watch a lil of the game, only because of the 1100 i have on it spread out on several boards/prop and standard bets...... but, not much going on really
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???????????
Just hoping my team can play as good as they did against Minnesota or better. My boss is pretty cool about it too, hes a sports fan and told us if anyones team makes it to the superbowl he’ll give them off. So im set, just figuring out if or how much i wanna bet on’em.
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Whats up with the discord thing? An overly complicated chatbox and ad tool? Seems to have much less traffic than old chatbox. meh
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WinISD Pro (alpha) or Beta? Im hoping on some advice from experienced users.
I used Pro the last few days. I modeled my built system, and the impedance plot and cone excursion seem to match the model well. To me, seems like the software fkn nailed it.
If using Pro, are there any nuances to watch for? Or is it a safer bet to stick with Beta?
TermPro was off by 7dB on the same design.
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Definitely stick with the pro version. As a note, I wouldn't suggest using the SPL graph to try and see what the SPL of the enclosure will be like in your car or room. It will more than likely be very off. Use it more to get a feeling of what the response will be. Can also use the transfer magnitude graph for that. If modeling a ported box, I would suggest looking at the rear port air velocity. In general I would suggest reading their help page on how to properly/accurately enter in custom driver parameters. It can be a bit temperamental in that sense.
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Shit meant 7 Hz, not dB. Anyway, thanks for the reply man.
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Digital Multi Meters... Fluke and Klein both make great equipment. I have a CL800 and it does what I need. What model DMM would you purchase if you had no $$$ limit?
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I personally use a TPI 440 scope plus. Was 2 years out of warranty and they fixed it for free (new dial, battery, charging port (as well as repair since it wasnt working)). Then I would look into a DC/AC clamp with a true peak hold (rather than just hold where it locks what is on the screen). 440 plus if i remember right are like 350-400.
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I like my Fluke meters, something about them being the leading brand in many different industries says a lot to me.
Really depends on what you plan to do with the meter on the options you need.If your using it just for car audio and or wanting to clamp an amps output, then Id say SMD AMM-1, if your needing it for actual electrician field type work then Fluke.
That being said I dont remember the last time I even used my Fluke DMM or Fluke clamp.
Also keep in mind that if you get a DMM that has the additional add on clamp that plugs into it that you can only measure amperage or voltage one at a time (ie: you cant use the meter to measure current at the same time as measuring voltage. So you would need clamp meter and a multimeter if you where wanting to "clamp" and amp (which has been proving to be inaccurate results)).Also I am a dealer for SMD products if you do decide to go that route.
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Thanks Brian, I have an AMM-1, DD-1, IM-SG, and a Klein CL800. Just making convo, mostly.
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I can see a 'reaction' button on status updates, but I dont see a 'reaction' button in any normal thread posts... Are yall able to see this mythical button on normal thread posts?
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Thanks Antheny. That fixed it. Hopefully yall can get that bug fixed soon so I can still be incognito at work. This theme is very bright haha.
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Go ahead and switch it back to SMD Classic. It should be better now!
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Thanks man!
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I hit up SSA about possibly making an Evil8 Midbass. I got a wishy washy response, but every time they get a request, that increases the chances that they design the product youre asking about.
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Im assuming there was a SOTM promotional on FB or YT judging from the amount of traffic looking for free stuff lol
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Lol. I have everything ripped out of my truck getting ready for the install but I already have the stuff for it. The wife's car already has bump so I figure someone else could benefit more from it.
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Hey Wish, where's the build log?
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In the living room for now lol.
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Im in Las Vegas for a conference Monday and Tuesday. Never been here before, but unfortunately im only here for two days. That being said, whats YOUR favorite thing to do in Vegas?
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Check out Absinthe and thank me later. You are in the prime area on the Strip. You're within walking distance to a lot. Get a cab or bus ride to downtown Vegas at night.
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Just checked...Absinthe doesn't run on Monday or Tuesday..noooooo!!! In that case....there is bomb ass food all over Vegas. Go get a good meal and then go hit downtown. There is some new shops and stuff across from Caesar's at the Linq as well.
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wow really fuck off then, lol
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Landing in Seatac tomorrow morning. We'll be in Seattle Proper on Thursday and Saturday partying. PM if you wanna have a beer or dish out a demo for a couple Houston bassheads that'll be in town
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Regulator died in my large case, been audio-less for over a month now. Soldering new regulator today and putting the large case back in. Werk werk werk
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At least you have a spare alt. now ? (SOTM joke)
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In all seriousness, I was hoping it would ship fast so I could drop it in, but theyre a bit backlogged.
I just asked Mechman to modify my order for a 1-wire alt so I can maintain voltage above 14V. I found out (via testing) that the battery light is not tied to the OBD system, so I should still be able to get state inspection.
And when the 320A hairpin arrives in a couple weeks, it will be swapped in
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Found out the 2-pin-plug wires that connect to the alt regulator had been pulled out of their connector potting. GM didnt put a stress cone on those leads.
Running the alt self-exciting (13.5-13.8V) right now with no problems. A simple goddamn 18ga wire ruined 2 regulators. The intermittent connection was signaling the regs on and off, quickly frying them.
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