BobbyG2

Peel and seal always sounded like a bad idea to me, thanks for showing my suspicions on a graph!

Hellz yeah!

Should of been...

For serious...? Fired, not suspended...

x2

Looking good! Next up, SAE Line? Or are you gonna do something to the NS line first?

http://www.splbassx.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12069

I got an D3400 too! Still haven't put it to use on my system yet, but so far it seems like my vehicles electrical is much stronger (quicker start up, brighter headlights, better performance of accessories such as windows) From what I've seen of systems with our battery, it should laugh at my SA SAE1200 and SAX 125.4!

Lol sure D7500 ~ D3100 ~ XP3000 MSRP $849.99 ~ $549.99 ~ $489.99 Weight Lbs. – 99.8 ~ 75.4 ~ 73 Weight Kgs. – 45.26 ~ 34.2 ~ 33 Length – 12.9 in ~ 12.99 in ~ 13 in Height – 7.2 in ~ 8.43 in ~ 8.65 in Width – 10.75 in ~ 6.81 in ~ 6.8 in MAX Amps – 6000 ~ 5000 ~ 3000 Ah – 140 ~ 110 ~ 120 RC – 280 ~ 237min. ~ 240min CA – 1700 ~ 1360A ~ N/A Looks to me like between the D3100, and the XP3000, the D is better for strong short bursts and the XP is better for a deeper reserve for longevity, but the D7500 schools both of them in both aspects.

D7500 ~ D3100 MSRP $849.99 ~ $549.99 Weight Lbs. – 99.8 ~ 75.4 Weight Kgs. – 45.26 ~ 34.2 Length – 12.9 in ~ 12.99 in Height – 7.2 in ~ 8.43 in Width – 10.75 in ~ 6.81 in MAX Amps – 6000 ~ 5000 Ah – 140 ~ 110 RC – 280 ~ 237min. CA – 1700 ~ 1360A

I'm sure a few people are looking at that and thinking...

My roommate was going to do something like this. I told him to get a ring terminal and I used my 6ton hydrolic crimper to make sure he didn't though. Made sure he fused it. Couldn't stop him from using a jumper cable for the ground, though... Oh well, it's just my old crappy boss amp... Lol

Explain why it wouldnt be easier With the big 3, all you need to do is add 3 wires. There are definitely more than 3 wires you'll need to replace under the hood, after removing all of them. But if that's what you want to do, there's no harm in it as long as you make sure you actually replace all the wires and do it right. Some of those wires run in high heat areas so make sure you're heat shielding the wires. Make sure they're all getting good contact. You'll definitely have a smoother running vehicle when done right!

Yeah, me too, but I was just offing up a suggestion.

Cleaner? Yes. Easier? Oh God, no.

I have another simple question: Is the ground from the alternator, to the block, to the frame, combined with the stock wiring, as good or better than 1/0 directly to the alternator?

I was once considering doing something like this, and here's what I'd do: - Two separate amps, or a two/4channel. - Build two separate enclosures, or 1 enclosure with two totally separate (sealed from each other) chambers - One for the SA 12(s), with the recommended airspace, tuned to ~20 Hz - One for the SA 8(s), with the recommended airspace, tuned to ~40-50Hz - Make sure that the low pass on the Amp for the SA 12(s) are at or slightly below the tuning frequency for the SA 8 enclosure - Make sure the High pass (Or subsonic) on the amp for the SA 8(s) are at the same frequency it's at for the SA 12(s) low pass - Adjust the Low pass for the SA 8(s) to meet the High pass (or subsonic) for your Mids amp, and adjust them both higher/lower (but still matching) until you feel that it sound right with your components. You might have to make some adjustments to your gain to get the SA 8(s) and SA 12(s) to sound even, but you should have a relatively flat response from <20Hz to whatever you set the SA 8(s) low pass to.

Lol, awesome!

Lol x2

Not playing the same frequencies...

These components are for more of a sound quality on a budget type set, the Neo Pros are meant to be super efficient and higher power handling. They're totally different.

They don't need to be in separate chambers. Imo it's less complicated and saves airspace if you just do one chamber, and achieves the same thing if the airspace is the same.