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ChevyBoy95

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Everything posted by ChevyBoy95

  1. I guess Ill just reiterate. 1. Yes 2. The belt size in most cases wont change even with the smaller pulley 3. No, you should not see any extra wear on the belt from it being a H/O alt 4. Generally no, but that depends on the engine and draw (You do loose hp under load, but generally not enough to notice)
  2. Well, with you having the potential to pull about 300-350a of current or so, with a stock alternator that may only be 80a (with about 40a going to accessories of the vehicle), you have probably enough reserve to stay in the 13's IF you had a 250a or so alternator to back it. "It takes power to make power."
  3. Yea, I personally buy the old X12's and just use the 20 dollar adapter (since the X12's are USB powered). The headsets that pull power from the controller drain your batteries fast. Been using the same set for years without a single issue, gonna buy a couple sets in case something happens in the future.
  4. My truck has sat for 2 months and still reads over 12.8v resting. edit: sounds like both of yall have a parasitic draw of some kind.
  5. That is what I thought, as far as audio brands, there pricing is very competitive.
  6. sometimes there are reasons why things dont exist... like a vespa with 1000hp
  7. why do you want a 4" coil on a 12? Plenty of monster 12's with a 3" coil that dominate.
  8. Pics? Don't do it OP. DC will tell you over and over that it will work fine, then won't cover you when they assplode. aka your lv6 12.... lol
  9. didn't play halo 4 much other than the campaign but giving this one a go.
  10. My truck is a daily, beat on it constantly before the rebuild, i have the same belt on there since i added dual alts, shows no signs of wear... that was 8kish miles and almost a year and a half. edit: I do keep the stock one in the truck incase, so i can just loop it on 1 alt if something happens.
  11. I have a Kenwood KDC X595, and it is clip free to 35 or 35 and gives 3.98v of the 4v rating clean with subwoofer setting on 0.
  12. I have a single 1000w 4 channel that keeps up with my wall on ~12kw. It is all about staging/imaging IMO. Pro audio helps, cone area helps, but all in all, there is no equation to find this out, since there are a TON of factors.
  13. I would personally swap the stock battery to the comparable XS battery S series model. You "can" have the d3100 in the rear and the stock up front, but mixing battery chemistry's is not something you want to really do.
  14. depends on the vehicle, some at 60a, some are 80a, some are 140a, and so on, it is vehicle dependent on what your stock does.
  15. 100a of alt for every 2000w is what I do. So if you run 6000w, get a 300a alt, 4000w, 200a alt. But in most cases GET THE BIGGEST YOU CAN FIT/AFFORD
  16. I have had 3 mechmans... all were 14.0v hot. Alts don't do full amperage at the voltage they charge @ with no load, so in reality... I dont get why people get hung up on stuff like this. Sometimes if it is hot enough, ill be @ 13.9v with dual alts.... only thing that matters is when the knob goes to the right, my voltage stays out of the dirt rather than looking down and going, "look how awesome that is.... 14.5v with no load!" edit : about the 1600w and dropping into the 12's with a 250a alt and 2 yellow tops??? you should be able to hold 13+ without a battery in the vehicle with that alt and the amp full tilt.
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