stroupe79

sealing the box forward from the trunk will help alot...gets rid of alot of ass rattle too...you can use cardboard to make templates to fill the gaps on the side of the box...so you dont have to spray foam the hell outta the trunk...i would also suggest using real sound deadener or sound dampener instead of trying to use spray foam... aero ports are the easier option for tunable boxes...i will tell you now with the equipment you listed your going to come nowhere close to sounding as loud as 2 15s...i dont care what kind of box you build...not trying to be a dick

those are cheapos....for 230 a 15 you can get something alot better..there is no way those could take 5k each let alone the 2500w they say is RMS... look at Skar VVX 15s they are 220 and are very nice for the price or Sundown SA-15 for 235 are great for the price too...you can check out both here http://www.woofersetc.com/c-35-15-subwoofers.aspx?manufacturerid=134&minprice=1&maxprice=1

i will let you know...if you want help you will need to give the max dimensions you have to work with...width, height and depth of the cargo area... you might want to let people know what kind of power your running, music you listen to, or what area your wanting the port tuned to...otherwise your not going to get anywhere

prefab boxes are shit...just build your own or get somebody to help you build your own...its cheaper and the best way to get the most outta your equipment

keeping an eye on this for sure...trunk builds are always interesting

go with the AP1800 if you can afford it...AP make relatively good amps for the price..they do rated power and are small enough that you might be able to mount it under a seat to keep it outta sight

Just wanted to start a build thread...I have a few pictures to post...need to get them over to photobucket and then will post lthem here First off setup is listed at top of signature

all decks distort at different volumes..even same makes...so what somebody says may be different from deck to deck...just to let you know

good luck bro...if you can pass the physical now..it shouldn't really matter about your previous injuries.. as for the what ifs...that is a really good reason to just go for it..dont want to look back on shit and wonder

murder that bitch out...fuck white wheels..they always look dirty..literally always...20minutes after cleaning them they are covered in brake dust and road dirt/dust

boris posted the link to the cheapest available online... here is what i have been eyeballing for a little while..its not a 22 but you'll get the picture http://www.wulfoutdo...m_campaign=Feed really like this 22 also https://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/411548480

you dont have to upgrade brakes...but it wouldnt hurt to if you can afford it about 420 to do a basic updgrade....not brembos/wilwoods or anything http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/power-stop-performance-brake-upgrade-kit-k1443/

looks like yours wont be very hard to seal off either...good luck with it...looks like its gonna look good when its done too yeah..seats not folding down pissed me off..but oh well I learned alot from that setup and thats what matters in the end

believe it of not...2 kicker comp 15s on a PPI PC2350 at 1ohm...in 5cubes sealed...sealed forward in a 94 cavalier 2door...that number was with the rear seats up too..I honestly think I could have hit a 150 if the seats folded down and I had figured out my resonant frequency...the 148.8 was on music too...dbDrag sealed on the dash here is the amp i was running..well same kind..not the actual amp.. http://www.soundbuggy.com/Eric/ebay/ppi_pc2350/index.html

dude I have pulled a pretty high number out the trunk with a 148.8 sealed forward...if I ever had a trunk I would do nothing but forward sealed off boxes...its makes it louder because your putting the same sound into a space thats basically 20-25% smaller...that should make it quite noticeably louder

use cardboard to make templates of the gaps you need to fill..thats the easiest way trunk rattle being way less is just a great bonus of sealing off forward...I understand what your saying about it doesnt seem as loud outside the car...I am not sure why but the same thing is going on with my 18 in my Jeep...its loud inside the car and not as loud as you would think or expect outside...which to me is a plus..as I can bang on it all I want and not worry too much about cops hearing me coming

he is on FB too... http://www.facebook.com/tmetalworkz

How to find resonant frequency of your vehicle would be nice..most people have no idea what theirs is

here is a link to basically every part imagineable for 97 Accord...you can just use it for a base to then search for best deals on parts http://nopi.com/dsp_pcsall.php?vcatyear=1997&vmakeid=140&vmodelid=010

How to do big3...I know a lot of people have no clue how to...or why they should

here is a link to parts/upgrades/mods for 1997 Accord....not saying its the best prices...but it sure is a great way to see what options you have and then you can go hunt down deals for whatever your looking for http://nopi.com/dsp_pcsall.php?vcatyear=1997&vmakeid=140&vmodelid=010

my box is tuned to 35hz per Rusty's recommendation...my Jeep's resonant frequency is 47hz..and my spl peaked at the high 40s to 50hz range...I am sure I could pull higher db's if I tuned my box to something in the mid 40s but then I dont think I would like the overall sound...I was never really building the box for numbers just giving you an idea of what happened with my setup

these vids are just ignorant....steering wheel looks like its gonna snap off at the column..back door looked like it was bout to just pop open... yeah...your truck will commit suicide if you put 2 more and up power to (2) 7.5k's!

if you have never built a wall or any type of 4th or 6th order I would say try to clamshell or powerV (clamshell sideways) as it would be much easier to figure your cubes with a more basic design... as for less cubes for running more than RMS I have DC lvl3 18 and am using recommended cubes while running 300 over RMS to it which is roughly the same type of power your going to get to the 6 with 7k...you really only drop cubes if your running at MAX not really for just a bit above RMS... if I were you I would consider running 4 at MAX power rather than 6 at just above RMS..it would free you up to upgrade ALT for the the price of the 2 extra 15s and maximize your electrical and the power of your amp/s...I mean Jesus 4 15s on 7k should be damn loud! box similar in design to this rolled on its side

if its a strip car i would assume you wouldnt be putting any system in it...i would guess its a street car that you want a nice setup in it and your not to stressed about 100lbs of weight in a 5500 pound car.. btw...with 18 coats of paint I would imagine he wouldnt want to replace hood/fenders and have to paint them to match...lol