Swordlordboy1234

At first i was just contracted to do the build for them because they did not have the man power to do the build. But they have offered me a job yes. The official answer of my employment there is not clear at this point. But the past two weeks of my life have been this truck and at this shop.

So i recently just did a 2 18's walled install for a local shop powered by a NS1 v2 and all of the best equipment that us bass heads would approve of. After 7 days of busting my butt on this install, we get ready to turn it on... One sub doesn't play. It ohms out correctly on my DMM, and all of my connections are solid. But one sub would play and one wouldn't. We un mounted it and took a signal generator to the voice coils, again the one sub played, the other did not. We were baffled. But then a metal tool was accidentally moved near the magnet of the not working sub and it didn't move.... We hit the tool on the rubber boot and got nothing. Tested this against the sub still inside the box and sure enough about 8 inches away the subs magnetic force ripped grabbed the tool and held it strong against the rubber boot. We called sundown. They apologized profusely, and said they would call back the next day FIRST thing to give tracking info on the replacement sub. Here it is monday, still no info about the working replacement sub... and they also want the shop to pay for shipping back on the unmagnitized subwoofer via fedex freight. Im hoping that posting this in the sundown section will get better results then a call a few days back that may have been forgotten. Video proof :

New subs, new enclosure in the Tahoe? I'm tuned in

Totally worth the price of not cleaning that box. Happy birthday Steve!

So recently as some may know I disassembled my trunk to do some finishing touches and add new amps. Well in my haste I accidently wired my CE auto electric tork2 relay kit improperly. Tony could explain in detail what exactly was happening but I'll give it my best shot. This is a wiring lesson for anyone with a spare minute to read. (CE auto electric ftw btw) So I installed my amps remote on my relay, no problem. It all turned on, never gave it a second thought. A few weeks later I tried to wire fans directly off my devices power and ground that is fed from my amplifiers power and ground inputs. (Fused of course) with out the fans I'd hold proper voltage on my vm1 14.0 (14.2 hot charging on a DMM) but as soon as I plugged my fans in my tm1 would read 13.7...but the fans would work fine So I think, with enough electrical to support 5k easily, why the hell are fans giving more voltage drop then both my amps at 60% volume. So I go to start investigating. At first I thought it was some bad quality quick male/female disconnects I used. So I wired the fans directly to my rear battery. Bam, they came on like a hurricane and I was like, cool... Issue solved. Wired them to my relay and called it a done deal. Tested the fans afterwards, and they worked. So tired and hungry I went inside. The next morning I start my car, I'm delighted to hear my fans HUMM though the echo of my empty box (subs were out) and as I go to turn up the headunit so I can listen to music on the way to work. NOTHING. I start freaking out. I checked for loose wires, loose RCA's. I had power at the amps, I didn't understand. So I call tony. He starts running me through the check lists of stuff, having me take readings on certain points using my DMM with the fans on/off ect. The fans were blowing soft, and my multi meter was reading 6v at the relay! Could I have a bad relay? Tony was baffled. He has me bypass the relay by wiring the bigger remote wire directly to the + on my battery. BAM. fans blow hard, everything reads 14v....and tony being the awesome guy he is begins the process of sending me a brand new relay. But first he sakes me to read off exactly how I have everything wired on the tork2 strip. Long story short, I wired the remote turn on from my headunit to the receiving part of the remote turn on for the strip. So the relay wasn't even functioning and my headunit was powering my fans and all accessories. I switch the wires correctly according to Tonys directions and TADA. everything works as advertised. From states away tony helps me find my own hasty wiring issue over the phone and with out my vm1 to help me find the weird draw, and Tonys help to fix the draw, I'd still be scratching my head. Thanks for reading guys. Great companies mentioned above, be sure to check them out!

The term ohm is referring to its resistance. Higher means more resistance. So at the spider pack or wherever your meauring on the sub it's getting slightly less resistance. Once it goes through push terminals, wire, and a terminal cup... Even if each one of those things only adds .05 resistance it will Add up from (example) 1ohm to 1.15ohm, in my example of course. I'd check to insure your connections are as tight and corrosion free as possible. Loose connections and corrosion will add resistance every time.

Shut up and take my money!

Well... Sort of, Damore said the max is 5a. So you can power 10 of the 90mm fans that I use, or about 50smd devices... Or any combination that is under 5a That's directly from tony. The tm1 just can't see more then 5a

Awesome work, oh and according to tony damore. Iirc he said the devices need like .1a each... I was inquiring about the tm1 in regards to how many fans it can run and if I have multiple smd devices on the same 5a fuse required on it for both fans and the devices.

4673 bob.