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getting close to having the wall done and wired up on 5 of the small amps( swaping to 5x 2500w rms amps in the near future , still need to seal it to the b pillars and other work but i got plenty of time before the next comp

progress is slow but i got the port cut and in today for testing and 3 out of the 5 sub amps installed its enough for some low power testing /checking making sure the enclosure doesnt have anything loose etc hopefully ill have enough time this weekend to get all 5 wired up and playing

Sorry I've been MIA. As for the 74AH pro I'm not sure you should get it. I'm second guessing my purchase already and I cant send it back. I'm still going to try and use it but i wish I would have done more research. Apparently these cells have a really narrow voltage range. It might work for me but I'm still a ways off from testing them out. ----------------UPDATE 2/25/24--------- I decided to revamp my system entirely. I sold everything from my old car except 2 SA x-8's, my SIA2500.1d, and my wiring. I got rid of my Infinity Kappa 3-ways and purchased Infinity Kappa Perfect 3-ways. The new setup is as follows Helix M Four DSP running my tweets and Midrange 2 Sound Digital 800.4's running my midbass, center channel, and rear speakers SIA2500.1d running 2 SA X-8v.4's - 2ohm's @ 2000watts - Also contemplating building a T-line enclosure for these Also I decided to do custom a-pillars. So on with that! These are my Infinity Kappa 300m midranges all taped up and ready to be trimmed. The two things i dislike about these are that the mounting tabs add an inch of width and they don't come with grills. Gonna have to fix that. Left one trimmed, on the right you can see the problem. These are some funky a pillar pods I found on amazon. I'll still need to do some fiberglassing and trimming once my second set of a-pillars come in. Not gonna modify the originals. Thank you skar audio for the sacrificial grill Fit's but is not done. This is a tinner's hammer hammer. Time to shape some metal Not perfect but you can see what I'm going for. A can of zyn fit's nicely to help with the shaping Also had some steel round mesh from another project So I decided to try that as well Side - by - side of the two grill options Now for the tweeters. The flush mounts we too big so originally I was going to use these. But it looks hideous and bug-eyed. So I trimmed one of the flush-mounts to fit. And ditched the black grill. The steel looks better imo, especially when matching the tweeter. There's still a lot I need to do to these. Currently the grill is sitting on the midrange surround so I need to fix that, and the pods still need to be fiber glassed to the a-pillars and covered with some kid of material. But that is for another day.

closer , waiting ont he first 2 baffle layers to dry and then i can glue this one to those and install it for real

getting the inner shell done tonight

Who remembers when I use to post my "REALTIME" videos? Well they are coming back

getting older sure does suck

recoil has new amps coming amp ill be getting 3x of the 2500's to replace the 1200's , i also did start to deaden the doors got the driver side door outer skin done today , hoping to get one door done each day , i think im going to get some 150 mil stuff to do the inner panel with instead of using the 394mil stuff on that as well

Joe X design is a good ported box. Corner 45s don't do much for a subwoofer box besides brace it and eat up internal volume. If you wanted a similar design with a bit more internal volume then I do have one free on youtube. Feel free to do basically whatever with it. You could also try to design a mass loaded transmission line with offset driver/stub. It's basically a lot like a ported box but attempts to cancel resonance in the enclosure to give more bandwidth.

That box is designed for SA-8s as a result the X subs are going to find themselves in a too small box with low port area and tuned too high, surely above the 36Hz specified as driver displacement for X subs is larger, maybe it will get to 38Hz or more and could experience some port noise. Used to a large box tuned very low you will definitely notice a loss in bottom octave bass. Regarding to your question, you can always strengthen the box but if it is made of cheap thin 5/8" wood then it is not impossible. Lastly the pre cut sub holes cannot fit X subs, you will have to work on the holes. Overall that box seem expensive and not adequate for the subs. I would lift up the seats and do a proper custom enclosure for those subs and even then you probably have better bottom octave bass right now than you will ever get with some 8s.

finally got started on it heres some pics form today tipping out the trunk build and starting to mock panels up front baffle will be tripple thick with dbl layer everywere else inner panels are a lil bit cheaper ply with the outer layers being 13 ply layout is going to be 3 subs across the top , and 2 on the bottoms on left and right of the baffle with a 225sqin swapable slot port tuned for 28hz for daily use and more then likley 45hz for burping

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Some 56 square inches of total port area, two ports half that number for each port.

When you have more than one sub you pick a spot in which both subs will see the same load so not B.

Subs get stinky when they had enough power, but I wouldn't try that method on type rs, that is a method more adequate for SPL drivers. BTW make very sure you entered valid data to WinISD or you may be led to the wrong conclusions.

You just need to make sure your subs do not go over Xmax at the operating power, but since your amplifier exceeds by far the RMS of your subs you will have to be very careful not going too far, generally oversized enclosures and sub overpowering in a hazardous mix with a very likely outcome of subs mechanical damage so you need to set the gain of the amp not to the clipping point but rather lesser that the subs can can tolerate. You can find maximum power in a similar way as before, in WinISD up power until Xmax is reached in the enclosure size you chose and you can clamp the amp to roughly reach that power and set gains accordingly so you can't go over the limit on normal use.

You need your new equipment professionally installed, that includes new wiring, battery, setting your gains correctly and such. Talking over the internet looks like is not going to be helpful in your case. You need a person who is properly trained and has the tools to help you.

Correct. The reason for so many is due to some people using multiple runs of power wire from the front of the vehicle to the back. In my truck for example I have 9 positive runs of 1/0 and 9 negative runs of 1/0 (18 total) coming from my 3 alts under the hood to the back batteries. So when people have larger systems with over 1600amps worth of alternator charging, multiple 5,000+ watt rms amps, etc one single run of 1/0 or even 4/0 coming from under the hood simply cant handle the current load. Now take into consideration of the length of said wire which reduces its current rating, resistance and voltage drop in the wire, hell even if you're pulling the maximum current limit from whatever wire you're running your going to have to factor in heat and even more resistance. So that is why there's multiple spots for additional wires to be connected so you can adapt to your needs and overcome obstacles and restrictions in the wire. Hopefully that helps.

What is the vehicle?

dueling gaming pc’s 😁 I networked the drives so I can use the “older” pc as a storage server also. Win! The one on the left is the previous PC but with an RTX 3090 in it. The 4090 was migrated over to the new tower.

This case blows for air flow, ... add in temps being 3 digits for 6 weeks straight here, and, why not get a pump, cpu and gpu block,.. chuck a rad or 2 in there, and shove some water through things. Heat killer cpu block, EK gpu block, 360mm rad, 280mm rad, BEquiet silent wing pro fans, aquasuite quadro controller/software ( i dig this thing) , EK d5 pump,res, fittings,tubing. Just a simple gaming rig, nothing serious. HyteY60 case/7800x3d/7900xtx/DDR5-6400 CL30/Asus Strix x670e-e/Seasonic 1000 prime titanium Samsung g7 32" 240hz/Samsung g7 27" 240hz/ROG Azoth keys First go with a loop,... and, I think ill add a loop to my other rig. I have a flow sensor, and some other ish, ready to go in, when I get bored enough to stick it all in. Runs like a top.

Alright now for the fun stuff. For subs I'm going with 2 Sundown audio x-8v.4's. Why? because 8's are Rad, and I'm trying to keep my care as usable as possible. But also because it's different. The original plan was 3 but I was having difficulty making a box for three that would work within my size constraints and the SA 2500.1 D would struggle to run 3. Maybe down the line I'll go for broke and run 4 off of a beefy 4k for shits and giggles, but most likely I'll sell off the extra 8. The Box that the subs are sitting on is a CT Sounds dual 8 enclosure with 3/4 MDF, a kerf port tuned to 39hz, and abou .81cu ft per woofer. It's on the smaller side but it was cheap and I figured it would be good to compare against a future box with a full 1cu ft per woofer and 32hz tuning. But first, I needed to fix a few things. These Cup terminals. Known for being leaky, So lets fix that. This is some Second Skin Butyl Rope that I had leftover from my last build. This stuff rocks. It's especially good at silencing license plates. This worked for me before with a sealed enclosure, just gotta really work it into the cracks. Next I put some ferrules on the wires because ferrules are awesome And Last I used a little Tessa tape (Fabric Tape) just to make sure the wires don't rattle against the box. And that's pretty much where I have to stop, at least until I gut my other car, and start building an amp/battery Rack.

I haven't looked into their sub parameters to see if they are good. I can only suggest to get someone to design an enclosure for you (or go with a program that can give you data back on how the box will theoretically perform). I have a tough time when people go with general port areas and ratios. Just because it plays doesn't mean it's right or optimal.

For the port size and length you should model the enclosure in a program like winisd that will show you the port air velocity and excursion so you can see how different sizes of port will effect how it all performs. You don't need anything to direct the airflow to the ports except for a flared end piece. Keep the end of the port away from the back wall by at least the diameter of the port. I.E. a 4 inch diameter port should have at least 4 inches clearance at the end of the port.

First time posting here! Just wanted to say hello to everyone! Most of all, I want to give a shoutout to Steve Meade & his crew! They are a great group of people!

Regardless of the issues you may have two 12s in such a big vehicle is too little cone area for such a big vehicle, SUVs need at least 2 15s in a highly efficient enclosure to get decently loud. Of course if your enclosure is bad and / or your installation / settings are no good performance will be bad regardless of what you own.

The subsonic (high pass) is generally 4th order not 2nd order filter in most amps so it will need to be set higher to better control excursion, also, WinISD doesn't account for cabin gain so your frequency response just show how the box will play outdoors. But you can still compare your plot with a 4.75 net box tuned to 29Hz (the prefab) to see how much are you expected to gain, that actually is useful information you might be interested in.

Sure you can do that for some moderate improvement, larger improvements involve greater cone area like for example doing 2 15s, if doing a larger than recommended box and tuning higher requires you setting up your subsonic filter higher to prevent sub bottoming out.

got the excess cut fromt he corners and had to call it a night ran out of daylight , i have 2 panels to install in the top of the box tommorow morning and then i can work on fiberglassing and sealing the inside before i put the outser layers on

Usually the negative speaker wire output is fine to use, however on some amps if it don't work then the negative battery terminal will work as well. Most amps the negative speaker terminal and the negative battery terminal are tied together, but thats not always the case and thats really the only time you need to use the negative terminal or vice versa.

Some but not all headunits will not distort at max volume when only using rca preouts. Now if you're using the internal amp of the headunit that will usually distort long before the rca preouts will so you will want to use that as your max volume setting.

You need to specify what's your vehicle, what is the sub model the box specs and some pictures if possible. Looks like a box issue, installing a DSP could help flatten your response but not the other issues, in some situations inverting the phase of the signal to the subs can help some cancellation issues, other times box location / sub, port firing direction etc can help. try what is suggested and if you still not get results then provide the details I asked about above.

Not sure the chambers are of different sizes but even if they were with sealed there is no much difference in performance for normal to larger than normal internal volumes, say 1 cubic feet and 1.2 cubic feet will sound largely the same. If those subs are the lanzar st max12s those may play better in ported box rather than sealed. To answer your question it's better to cut a circle in the dividers rather than take them out to preserve the box strength.

I went with UL listed welding cable. There is a reason for Under writers laboratory certification. UL does a lot of testing on all aspects of the wire from the copper content to the jacket material. It is not cheap to get a product certified. It is also not cheap to keep the certification on that product. In this day and age of everything being fake and copied does anybody really believe that the wire is OFC just because it says it on the wire or the company claims it is. Do you really think the wire did not come from China and that the Chinese are honest and would never use sub par material for their products. A lot of fake Chinese products say UL approved on them. The issue is they never sent in the product to be tested. There will always be an approval number associated with the product. This number can be looked up in the UL online database. Take some time to read up on UL wire testing. It will open your eyes to see why and how it is done. The last time I checked I did not see any UL/ CE certification for Sky high or Knuconceptz wire. I am not saying car audio power wire it is bad wire. I know a lot of people use non UL listed wire without issues. Wire is expensive. I spent over $1k for power wire. I have assurances that the wire is 100% OFC copper, and that the Jacket material was made using the correct rubber for its application. Of course this is my opinion. Buy what you like and can afford.

yooooooo. been a minute. this just brings back good memories. still alive, and now i choose the go fast life instead of the bass life. 2 kids and a wife since I last logged on.

No, I didn't miss word it. I was just wrong. Thank you for the clarification. I thought it measured both. I must admit, I only skimmed through the manual lol.

Wrong, I still cant understand how people think this or maybe you worded it wrong but the DD-1 will NEVER measure clipping. You will have distortion long before clipping is ever seen on an oscilloscope. Once the red light on the DD-1 lights up you hit 1% THD so by the time the wave is becoming deformed on an oscilloscope you are so far beyond that 1% THD that the DD-1 is looking for.

OK . . . when I got the call from Steve yesterday on the second T15kw, I gotta tell you that I was pretty excited - so excited that I walked over to engineering right away and shared the news with the T15kw build team, and of course Tony D'. You should of seen the look on their faces . . . everyone is very excited about this project - a single vehicle with two T15kws . . . the thought of that just stands the hair up on the back of my neck! We're even more excited that Northern Cal's mad scientiest is behind it! Who better to ensure that these amplifiers will perform to their fullest than Steve Meade? I read about the last five pages of the thread and all I'm going to say is that two T15kws will be more than enough power for any and all speakers Meade can cram into this vehicle. What you have to take into consideration is that the T15kw is not like any other amplifer on this planet. Although it is a class A/B amplifier, it does not behave like one in many respects. Furthermore, it does not sound like any Class A/B amplifier these ears have ever heard - and I've owned some nice ones! To NOT use Hybrid Technology power on the mids and highs - now that would be criminal! When you guys think of power in watts, you're bound by the amplifier technology of today - one has to think differently when talking about Hybrid Technology amplification. Certainly, a watt is a watt - but traditional amplifier behave quite differently from the T15kw when driven into clipping . . . I think it's about time for Tony D' to make a forum appearance at SMD so that he can elaborate on what I speak of. What do you guys think?