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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/19/23 in Posts

  1. getting close to having the wall done and wired up on 5 of the small amps( swaping to 5x 2500w rms amps in the near future , still need to seal it to the b pillars and other work but i got plenty of time before the next comp
    3 points
  2. progress is slow but i got the port cut and in today for testing and 3 out of the 5 sub amps installed its enough for some low power testing /checking making sure the enclosure doesnt have anything loose etc hopefully ill have enough time this weekend to get all 5 wired up and playing
    3 points
  3. Lexus ISF on NOS cold start 🥶 and rev (5.0 V8) ISS Forged SS exhaust
    2 points
  4. Sundown Audio X8 v.4 8” Subwoofer is a legit BEAST (SMD flash giveaway!)
    2 points
  5. closer , waiting ont he first 2 baffle layers to dry and then i can glue this one to those and install it for real
    2 points
  6. getting the inner shell done tonight
    2 points
  7. Crazy Hair Raising BASS! Slam Halen Mazda truck 18kw System 6 12" Subs Bandpass Blow-Thru (Finished)
    2 points
  8. figured id share my build this is my first build on over 20 years , my last build was 2x alumapro bp-12's built into the cabin of a 89 camaro, this build specs out as follows 4x sundown audio e8 v6's built my own 3.6 net cf slot ported box tuned to 34 hz the front doors each are getting 1x 8 inch dayton audio midbass , and 2x 6.5" recoil midranges along with the same in the rear doors for all the amps im originally wanted to run 2x jp23's and 2x jp34ab's but i ended up deciding to run 4x recoil audio red 1200.1 for the subs ( 1 amp for each sub at 1 ohm ) and 2x recoil audio rea 600.4 ab amps for the mids and highs unfortunately for me the biggest alt i can find for this car atm is a 250amp so im going to have to figure something out here more then likley building a bracket to mount a second alt im also building a 96ah headway bank 4 runs of 1/0 from front to back due to it being winter progress is slow even though i have most of the pieces needed to get this together first things to get done will be the alt and running all of the 1/0 runs as of right now i put the raw box in the car and im running it on a single red1200.1 and i must say i am very pleased with it on the single amp and i also got the front door baffles made and screwed to the panels but they need all the fiberglass work done which i cant do till it warms up for right now i have some pyle 6.5's in the doors that were given to me for free and the dayton 8's the amp rack itself is being built inplace of the rear seat bottoms anyways heres a few pics for the time being the one video is just them on a 60x2 amp i had laying around
    2 points
  9. Who remembers when I use to post my "REALTIME" videos? Well they are coming back
    2 points
  10. recoil has new amps coming amp ill be getting 3x of the 2500's to replace the 1200's , i also did start to deaden the doors got the driver side door outer skin done today , hoping to get one door done each day , i think im going to get some 150 mil stuff to do the inner panel with instead of using the 394mil stuff on that as well
    2 points
  11. You do subs up in hatchbacks, vans and SUV for example but in trunk cars doing subs up would rattle the trunk lid bad and that rattling is difficult or impossible to stop even after applying deadening so generally not recommended. You can try to use the box with subs firing forward or back, firing back is usually louder. Any other questions let me know.
    2 points
  12. Good lord Dude... That's like.... Double what I get. And I'm bottlenecked by my 5950x. Hot damn dude
    2 points
  13. Swapped McLaren mlt5s for PRV TW450S and added a 2nd tweet set ...doors will get finished eventually lol
    2 points
  14. Who cares if you “need” 5gig. You want it you get it. I’d shank my mother for that kind of infrastructure.
    2 points
  15. Like is stated in the video, I have spent the last two years since we moved into this house with the worst internet options known to man. We live in a forest somewhere in the Sierra Nevada's between Sacramento and Reno. I never thought internet could be as bad as it was. I got by with the local provider who climbs up a tree and aims an antenna at the nearest tower and then charges you an arm and two legs for service. That was $100 a month for my plan and with overages they were trying to charge me upwards of $400 a month! For service that wasn't worth a damn at 15 down and about 3-5 up. HORRIBLE. Then I got a business hotspot plan from ATT. That cost me $200 a month and was doing about 30-45 down and about 8-10 up. I added a Waveform flat panel external antenna and was able to get about 100 down and 28-30 up. Not to bad. I can survive on that. I had the entire house running on it through a very expensive mesh network. It was really the only choice. I was able to game on it no problem and youtube video uploads weren't too painful. Then i tried Nomad internet, another 4g LTE based service that hit off the Verizon towers. It cost $150 a month. It did about 30-40 down and about 15-20 up on it's best day. It was spurratic at best. No way i could game on it and uploading videos to the internet was hit or miss. Terrible. I got rid of that after about 6 months and tried a T-Mobile 5g service with the thinking i would maybe hit a T-Mobile tower and it could be better. I saw 60-75 down and 15-20 up. But again, it was unreliable as i couldn't upload very well and gaming sucked on it. For just $50 bucks a month, i kept it acive for an emergency backup. A few months later my Starlink arrived after waiting for a year and a half (we ordered it summer 2021 and were on a waiting list). That costs $110 a month and just now going up to $120 a month. It did ok at 100-150 down and around 12-15 up. We mainly used it for the entire house (i put it on my mesh network) and kept the ATT Hotspot (a Nighthawk M5) dedicated to my office. That was how we did it for several more months and it worked pretty good. But I was still paying $120 for starlink, $200 for ATT (business hotspot), and $50 for T-mobile (as a backup). That is a wopping $370 a month for total crap! Then one day, the sky opened up and the gods handed down Frontier Fiber internet to my neighborhood in the woods. Of course, when i saw 5000 up and 5000 down for $154 a month (and several other amazing teirs for even cheaper), i pulled the trigger and said let's go!! I cancelled all the other stuff and i am saving a ton of money. Maybe i don't need 5000/5000 but dammit, I am so excited to finally have REAL internet at my house I don't care! Give me ALL the bits! As you can also see in the video, i had to make some changes to my PC in order to achieve these speeds. Most PC's aren't capable of doing more than 1000/1000 and that includes my beast gaming rig with an MSI Godlike board. So if you do the same as me, be warned, anyting over 1000/1000 might not be achievable until you make changes. Typically the 5000/5000 is shared in the entire house so my PC doesn't NEED to have those speed all to itself. But I am on a mission to see those numbers with my own eyes. So i build a new one with a 10g ethernet port. The results were pretty good i would say!
    2 points
  16. I have a VW Golf (2017). It has the basic entertainment system. I wanted to go with a high level to my DSP. I had nothing but problems going that route. The VW head unit is looking for a specific resistance at the speakers. I was constantly getting distortion coming in and out depending on the recording and song (It would happen multiple times through a song). This happened on multiple music platforms. It didn't matter how we set the headunit eq or volume at. If it was flat, below flat, frequencies turned down or up. It always came back to distorting at some point. I did get the work completed through a reputable shop and was thankful that all the diagnosis did not cost me anything. There is a unit that can be installed that integrates the VW head unit and has RCA outputs (I don't remember what it is) Ultimately I had went to the aftermarket headunit. Zero issues since.
    1 point
  17. Sorry I've been MIA. As for the 74AH pro I'm not sure you should get it. I'm second guessing my purchase already and I cant send it back. I'm still going to try and use it but i wish I would have done more research. Apparently these cells have a really narrow voltage range. It might work for me but I'm still a ways off from testing them out. ----------------UPDATE 2/25/24--------- I decided to revamp my system entirely. I sold everything from my old car except 2 SA x-8's, my SIA2500.1d, and my wiring. I got rid of my Infinity Kappa 3-ways and purchased Infinity Kappa Perfect 3-ways. The new setup is as follows Helix M Four DSP running my tweets and Midrange 2 Sound Digital 800.4's running my midbass, center channel, and rear speakers SIA2500.1d running 2 SA X-8v.4's - 2ohm's @ 2000watts - Also contemplating building a T-line enclosure for these Also I decided to do custom a-pillars. So on with that! These are my Infinity Kappa 300m midranges all taped up and ready to be trimmed. The two things i dislike about these are that the mounting tabs add an inch of width and they don't come with grills. Gonna have to fix that. Left one trimmed, on the right you can see the problem. These are some funky a pillar pods I found on amazon. I'll still need to do some fiberglassing and trimming once my second set of a-pillars come in. Not gonna modify the originals. Thank you skar audio for the sacrificial grill Fit's but is not done. This is a tinner's hammer hammer. Time to shape some metal Not perfect but you can see what I'm going for. A can of zyn fit's nicely to help with the shaping Also had some steel round mesh from another project So I decided to try that as well Side - by - side of the two grill options Now for the tweeters. The flush mounts we too big so originally I was going to use these. But it looks hideous and bug-eyed. So I trimmed one of the flush-mounts to fit. And ditched the black grill. The steel looks better imo, especially when matching the tweeter. There's still a lot I need to do to these. Currently the grill is sitting on the midrange surround so I need to fix that, and the pods still need to be fiber glassed to the a-pillars and covered with some kid of material. But that is for another day.
    1 point
  18. When you have more than one sub you pick a spot in which both subs will see the same load so not B.
    1 point
  19. Subs get stinky when they had enough power, but I wouldn't try that method on type rs, that is a method more adequate for SPL drivers. BTW make very sure you entered valid data to WinISD or you may be led to the wrong conclusions.
    1 point
  20. Bumping up this oldie but goodie here. So for the past 2 years or so I've been using this same T-Line box with this same now 14 year old Subwoofer from the now defunked company in my home theater build. I'm getting ready to build a second one as I have a still never used eD 13kv.4 subwoofer that I'm gonna use to have a dual 12 subwoofer setup in my theater room. If anyone is interested in seeing said theater room I have linked it over from my Reddit page here: Reddit Theater Page
    1 point
  21. for the smal info that i could find, its a us made sub, 800 w rms each, dont quote me on that lol so 2 12" with 1600 w rms is a nice sub to have for a daily....
    1 point
  22. Cool. None of my enclosures even have screws. Never had a "leak" or anything break apart. Odd. 80 amp, and not blowing the fuse. You are no where near, peak power. Not even half. Sooooo, your good. No breaking shit,.. from power anyway. Edit- maybe just a really poorly built enclosure. I've never, in my decades of audio, had the privilege of seeing anyone "blow" their box apart,, unless it was a pile of wood just hucked together, or a prefab. Even then, it wasnt from "power". But good luck to your goal mate.
    1 point
  23. The heaviest 12” Sub? 🔊Weight Check ⚖️ Pride Audio on the scale
    1 point
  24. Bucket O’ Bass 🔊 12” Pyle Sub 😂
    1 point
  25. 4 18” Subs SLAMMING 🔊 30,000 watt Chevy Tahoe - Discovery Channel video shoot 🎥
    1 point
  26. Wiring/batteries: Honestly, 1 run of 0ga +/- should be fine unless you're pushing absurd lengths. Can calculate voltage drop across wiring to get wherever ya need as far as Vdrop goes. Same goes for batteries. That's plenty for the power you're running. As always though, you can always adjust/upgrade if you find your electrical isn't performing how you want. I don't have any hands-on with those rigs, so I'll take your word on the ground loop shenanigans. --- Alternator: Again, prefacing this with I don't have any hands-on with these. So if you've already done the research on it, apologies. Just want to have a talking point on it. I'll also add that if you wanted to bypass ELM altogether, ask mechman for an external regulator. If you go that route, throw the wiring harness in the trash and wire the +/- on the regulator with 8ga tinned OFC. In my experience, the 14(?) gauge the kits come with creates a bit of a feedback loop of sorts and yields inconsistent voltage. the tl;dr is voltage drop across the sense wires causes the regulator to read low voltage, increasing power, increasing voltage drop, and so on until it sees an equilibrium. At which point, the regulator eases up, eliminating the voltage drop, then reading a higher voltage, and so on until that sees an equilibrium. Then the whole process repeats cyclically. See it more with larger battery banks or capacitors than with smaller stuff, ironically. Would this one work? https://www.mechman.com/alternators/acura/ilx/2-4l/2013-2015/240-amp-alternator-for-select-2-4l-honda-acura/ If so, honestly, you could probably ditch the rear battery and replace w/ capacitors to save some weight, or throw a smaller one in there. Idle output might be challenge though, IIRC these hondas have a smallish crank pulley. That's something you'll have to weigh the pros/cons of on your end. --- Trunk coating: Be careful with any sort of painted on material, especially in low spots like the trunk, and absolutely don't use it on exterior. It likes to trap water between the coating and base material and can cause some corrosion issues. Nice idea on the off-label use though. Always like to see those sorts of experiments. --- Rear speakers: depends how stiff they are. Rear stage usually isn't a huge consideration on builds like this. But there are 2 trains of thought on it: 1. Remove them altogether so you have a gaping hole to let pressure through to the cab. Test and check to see if your system performs better with them in or out. It's not always better because of resonances. That turns your box+trunk into a psuedo series-tuned-6th-order. 2. Install the rear speakers and leave the buckets in place to protect them. The pressure from the sub will shred the things otherwise. Depending on how it goes together and how stiff it is, you could use sound deadener to firm up the area and bolster your efforts to seal off those drivers.
    1 point
  27. The SMD VM-1 vs. typical digital readout volt meter under heavy load & fast double kick drums
    1 point
  28. Post pics and specs (box specs, amp, electrical, etc) of your previous setup, Sure enough the X subs are for the lows and not SPL but two 18s (if properly setup) should not be so disappointing unless the box is wrong or the subs are not driven properly.
    1 point
  29. i have a Alpine 9887 and a scope, the RCA outs dont clip at full volume. the internal amp clips at volume 21 out of 35
    1 point
  30. You need to specify what's your vehicle, what is the sub model the box specs and some pictures if possible. Looks like a box issue, installing a DSP could help flatten your response but not the other issues, in some situations inverting the phase of the signal to the subs can help some cancellation issues, other times box location / sub, port firing direction etc can help. try what is suggested and if you still not get results then provide the details I asked about above.
    1 point
  31. I can't believe I remembered my old logins! I haven't done audio in YEARS! But I just grabbed me my first (fixer upper) SUV and was like, "Back in the day, I always said I'd do something crazy if I got me an SUV." This is the only audio forum I've ever been a part of so... Here I am, checking you guys out lol. Coincidentally, I asked this same question as I was typing the website in 😂. To answer your question though, I got away from audio and started building me some "fast" stuff. I got this SUV with a blown head gasket for the winter just to have a 4wd beater so I didn't have to drive my fun cars in the crappy weather. Once I did the gasket, that itch came back like crazy, VERY QUICKLY lol. So Im now actively installing some old stuff that I had in plastic from the last car I did audio in, God knows how long ago, just hoping it'll hold me over and not make me wanna spend some money 😂 But, Hi all! Good to see y'all AND the site are still kicking!
    1 point
  32. That is not normal. Your car is possessed most likely.
    1 point
  33. WHATS UP EVERYONE NEW MEMBER HERE. IM JOING THE FORUM TO DOCUMENT MY BUILD AND FOR ANY HELP AND/OR TIPS ANYONE CAN GIVE ME AS THIS IS MY FIRST "OFFICIAL" BUILD. REALLY AIMING FOR SQ I THINK ON THIS NOT REALLY SURE SINCE EL CAMINOS ARE SO COMPACT ON THE INSIDE ANY SUB WILL SOUND GREAT AND LOUD AS HELL LOL. BEFORE REDOING THE SYSTEM I HAD 2 3.5 speakers in the dash, 2 tweeters on the A pillars and a 12in p2 behind the seat. NOW IM LOOKING TO DO IT RIGHT SO BELOW IS EVERYTHING IM PLANNING ON RUNNING. SO FAR THE ONLY THING I HAVEN'T DECIDED ON IS THE NEW AMP FOR MY SUBS AND THE MIDS THAT I'LL BE RUNNING IN MY DASH ANY SUGGESTIONS ARE GREATLY APPRECIATED. A Pillar: 2 - tweeters from morel maximo comp set (ran active) DASH: 2 - 3.5in Speakers Mid (Ran Active) DOOR PANELS(ea.): 2 Morel Maximo 6 comp Ran active (only will use one set of tweeters which will be Ran to the A Pillars) Subwoofers: 2 Alpine S-W10d4 DSP: Dayton Audio DSP AMPS: Dash and Tweeters: 4/2 channel Undecided Door Panels: Pioneer Gm-Dx874 1200w 4ch I WILL RUN ALL THE DOOR SPEAKERS AS 4ohm unless it's convenient to wire them parallel and run them as 2ohm saving me two channels to use for the dash and only needing a compact 2ch for my tweeters SUBWOOFER: Rockford Fosgate 5001xd AS OF RIGHT NOW ILL RUN THEM IN PARALLEL SO THAT ITS 2ohm AND GETTING 600 RMS BUT THATS REALLY UNDERPOWERING IT IMO. LOOKING FOR A A MONO BLOCK THATS ABOUT A 1000watt rms Also here's a link to the box i made online im thinking of building as is fits right into the Elcos smuggler box. Is it a good design? thinking of making a new one but the design won't have the sub facing the back of the seat they'll be facing into the smuggler box and im unsure how that will sound and play into effect because i'm planing on having one of these boxes on each side of the smuggler box in the corner (for sq). https://subbox.pro/en/b/4tisUQAUi
    1 point
  34. You connect your head unit's REAR AUDIO OUT outputs to the MAIN-IN inputs of the EQ and you are done.
    1 point
  35. Soulgasm BASS Build 16 15" Subs "50,000 sum-odd watts" 6th Order Bandpass Wall As Caged As it Gets!
    1 point
  36. Here are 3 suggestions that will fit: For a high output daily use the Sundown Uv2 10 on 2K. For a SQL type of sound use the SSA GCON 10 on 1.5K. For sound quality flatter presentation (like.. I think I have a sub back there) you can use the 10W7AE-3 on 800W (may need a MDF ring).
    1 point
  37. low power testing with the subs in the mockup/test box subs back/ side fire 10 inch port tuned at 32hz
    1 point
  38. Here is a second suggestion, this one can be used with the sub mounted normal: Note: H needs to be 14" for proper pole vent clearance.
    1 point
  39. I'm not buying an electric car until I'm too old to enjoy myself.... so like....75?
    1 point
  40. I'm still alive...... and still an asshole!
    1 point
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