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figured id share my build this is my first build on over 20 years , my last build was 2x alumapro bp-12's built into the cabin of a 89 camaro, this build specs out as follows 4x sundown audio e8 v6's built my own 3.6 net cf slot ported box tuned to 34 hz the front doors each are getting 1x 8 inch dayton audio midbass , and 2x 6.5" recoil midranges along with the same in the rear doors for all the amps im originally wanted to run 2x jp23's and 2x jp34ab's but i ended up deciding to run 4x recoil audio red 1200.1 for the subs ( 1 amp for each sub at 1 ohm ) and 2x recoil audio rea 600.4 ab amps for the mids and highs unfortunately for me the biggest alt i can find for this car atm is a 250amp so im going to have to figure something out here more then likley building a bracket to mount a second alt im also building a 96ah headway bank 4 runs of 1/0 from front to back due to it being winter progress is slow even though i have most of the pieces needed to get this together first things to get done will be the alt and running all of the 1/0 runs as of right now i put the raw box in the car and im running it on a single red1200.1 and i must say i am very pleased with it on the single amp and i also got the front door baffles made and screwed to the panels but they need all the fiberglass work done which i cant do till it warms up for right now i have some pyle 6.5's in the doors that were given to me for free and the dayton 8's the amp rack itself is being built inplace of the rear seat bottoms anyways heres a few pics for the time being the one video is just them on a 60x2 amp i had laying around

getting close to having the wall done and wired up on 5 of the small amps( swaping to 5x 2500w rms amps in the near future , still need to seal it to the b pillars and other work but i got plenty of time before the next comp

progress is slow but i got the port cut and in today for testing and 3 out of the 5 sub amps installed its enough for some low power testing /checking making sure the enclosure doesnt have anything loose etc hopefully ill have enough time this weekend to get all 5 wired up and playing

Some photos of the new SMD mini anl fuse / distro blocks. From 2 spots up to 8 spots (4 to 16 spots on the ground/distro bars) They have 8ga inputs/outputs to keep the blocks very small…but i designed a really nice single and double input 8ga to 2ga/4ga adapters for those that want to run larger wires. Available in several colors! Copper coming soon as well. Visit www.wccaraudio.com if you have any interest in one of these jewels 💎 💎 We have SHCA mini anl fuses from 50 to 175a in stock to go with them 😎

Finally in!

Lexus ISF on NOS cold start 🥶 and rev (5.0 V8) ISS Forged SS exhaust

Sundown Audio X8 v.4 8” Subwoofer is a legit BEAST (SMD flash giveaway!)

closer , waiting ont he first 2 baffle layers to dry and then i can glue this one to those and install it for real

getting the inner shell done tonight

Crazy Hair Raising BASS! Slam Halen Mazda truck 18kw System 6 12" Subs Bandpass Blow-Thru (Finished)

Who remembers when I use to post my "REALTIME" videos? Well they are coming back

getting older sure does suck

recoil has new amps coming amp ill be getting 3x of the 2500's to replace the 1200's , i also did start to deaden the doors got the driver side door outer skin done today , hoping to get one door done each day , i think im going to get some 150 mil stuff to do the inner panel with instead of using the 394mil stuff on that as well

You do subs up in hatchbacks, vans and SUV for example but in trunk cars doing subs up would rattle the trunk lid bad and that rattling is difficult or impossible to stop even after applying deadening so generally not recommended. You can try to use the box with subs firing forward or back, firing back is usually louder. Any other questions let me know.

Good lord Dude... That's like.... Double what I get. And I'm bottlenecked by my 5950x. Hot damn dude

Swapped McLaren mlt5s for PRV TW450S and added a 2nd tweet set ...doors will get finished eventually lol

Who cares if you “need” 5gig. You want it you get it. I’d shank my mother for that kind of infrastructure.

Like is stated in the video, I have spent the last two years since we moved into this house with the worst internet options known to man. We live in a forest somewhere in the Sierra Nevada's between Sacramento and Reno. I never thought internet could be as bad as it was. I got by with the local provider who climbs up a tree and aims an antenna at the nearest tower and then charges you an arm and two legs for service. That was $100 a month for my plan and with overages they were trying to charge me upwards of $400 a month! For service that wasn't worth a damn at 15 down and about 3-5 up. HORRIBLE. Then I got a business hotspot plan from ATT. That cost me $200 a month and was doing about 30-45 down and about 8-10 up. I added a Waveform flat panel external antenna and was able to get about 100 down and 28-30 up. Not to bad. I can survive on that. I had the entire house running on it through a very expensive mesh network. It was really the only choice. I was able to game on it no problem and youtube video uploads weren't too painful. Then i tried Nomad internet, another 4g LTE based service that hit off the Verizon towers. It cost $150 a month. It did about 30-40 down and about 15-20 up on it's best day. It was spurratic at best. No way i could game on it and uploading videos to the internet was hit or miss. Terrible. I got rid of that after about 6 months and tried a T-Mobile 5g service with the thinking i would maybe hit a T-Mobile tower and it could be better. I saw 60-75 down and 15-20 up. But again, it was unreliable as i couldn't upload very well and gaming sucked on it. For just $50 bucks a month, i kept it acive for an emergency backup. A few months later my Starlink arrived after waiting for a year and a half (we ordered it summer 2021 and were on a waiting list). That costs $110 a month and just now going up to $120 a month. It did ok at 100-150 down and around 12-15 up. We mainly used it for the entire house (i put it on my mesh network) and kept the ATT Hotspot (a Nighthawk M5) dedicated to my office. That was how we did it for several more months and it worked pretty good. But I was still paying $120 for starlink, $200 for ATT (business hotspot), and $50 for T-mobile (as a backup). That is a wopping $370 a month for total crap! Then one day, the sky opened up and the gods handed down Frontier Fiber internet to my neighborhood in the woods. Of course, when i saw 5000 up and 5000 down for $154 a month (and several other amazing teirs for even cheaper), i pulled the trigger and said let's go!! I cancelled all the other stuff and i am saving a ton of money. Maybe i don't need 5000/5000 but dammit, I am so excited to finally have REAL internet at my house I don't care! Give me ALL the bits! As you can also see in the video, i had to make some changes to my PC in order to achieve these speeds. Most PC's aren't capable of doing more than 1000/1000 and that includes my beast gaming rig with an MSI Godlike board. So if you do the same as me, be warned, anyting over 1000/1000 might not be achievable until you make changes. Typically the 5000/5000 is shared in the entire house so my PC doesn't NEED to have those speed all to itself. But I am on a mission to see those numbers with my own eyes. So i build a new one with a 10g ethernet port. The results were pretty good i would say!

I haven't posted on here for a while but I've been building my ass off... Quick lunch break right now but I'll be back in a few hours to post some pictures.

as promised a better clip of the sundown e8's got a good recorder and turned it up a lil bit ,audio recorded with a Tascam DR-44WL going to pull the box and finish it up today clamped at 600w total on the recoil 1200.1 amp.... very very pleased with these subs 427035636_4xsundownaudioe8v6son600watts.mp4

Explanation and rambling below. tl;dr, speaker outputs are high voltage, amp casing is ground. Treat it accordingly. If everything still works, I doubt there's any long standing damage to either device. A bit of heat shrink isn't a bad idea, or even a fully insulated connector. Will tag @TonyD'Amore so he can see this. Full bridge, half bridge, class D, AB, etc are all the same in this regard The rails on the amp are energized, and the amp casing is, electrically, a ground. Full bridge / half bridge within this context only refers to if the voltage modulation (signal) happens on one terminal, or both. But regardless, they're both energized. They need to be. Having one terminal at "0v" and the other terminal at any other voltage would just be like wiring a battery to your speaker - DC offset. negative/positive doesn't really exist here as we normally think about negative and positive.... It's just to keep phase consistent, so just bear that in mind when I talk about this. Imagine both pos and neg are charged to 40v. How do you move the driver forward? Positive needs to increase to >40v, so that the ΔV is positive. So, if you play a signal that has an amplitude of 20v, your positive would need to be 60v, and your negative would remain 40v. ΔV = 60v-40v=20v. Then on the other half of the sine wave, where the driver needs to move backwards, positive would be reduced to 20v, so ΔV = 20v-40v=-20v. Whether this is done through one of the output terminals, or both, doesn't matter for the sake of this context. The point I'm trying to make is that regardless of the amplifier design, your speaker terminals should be treated as an energized, high voltage source. Hell, the large 12kw+ amplifiers put out more voltage than you'd get at a wall socket. They become a genuine electrical hazard if you start reaching around and fiddling with stuff wile the system is on.

This. Anything else about equipment is largely irrelevant. Alts won't stop the millisecond level voltage dips and spikes. nor will a bank of batteries Need led / hids, 2 charging systems, or a voltage regulator/driver for the headlights Just.... If you go the hid/led route, at a minimum, get bulbs that will let you adjust the focal point so you don't have squirrel finders. Or better yet, convert the things to projectors from the retrofit source or something (there are others out there, those are just the only ones that pop into my head).

Tinkering to make a Sprinter sound decent. Nothing ground pounding, just something more accurate. A lot of trial and error. The stock audio in them is worse than any OEM car audio system I have listened to in the last 10 years. A Ford Fiesta will put a Sprinter to shame. The MBUX Mercedes entertainment system is integrated into everything, so a different head unit wasn’t something I wanted to deal with. The high level outputs from the MBUX system were intercepted in the dash and go to a JL Audio FIX 86 LOC/ wimpy DSP also under dash). The amps are under the drivers and passenger seats. I bent up some aluminum trays for the amps. Four channel Alpine X-A70F amp has the front two channels connected to one pair of Alpine R-S65C.2 2 way component speakers and SPR-10TW tweeters mounted in stock locations in the front doors / dash with the tweeters aimed at the center rear view mirror with the tweeter crossovers set at -4db. (Used silicone mold putty to aim the tweeters, I know it is a bit cheesy) Rear two channels are connected to two pair of Alpine R-S65.2 coax speakers in the stock locations (sliding door, adjacent wall, and at the back row of seats). Front Channels are 120 watts each @ 4 ohm. Rear are 175 @ 2 ohm. Sub amp is an Alpine X-A90M connected to a pair of Alpine R2-W8D2 8” subs in .6 cubic foot ported boxes that fit under the first passenger row of seats. (I built one spare box). Connected load is 2 ohms which should be seeing 900 watts. Subs are small, but I wanted to keep them limited to the first passenger row. That way I can pull the remaining seats and haul full sheets of plywood / Sheetrock. All the OEM rear speakers were riveted to the paper door panels with no actual support. That all went into the trash and I fabricated aluminum panels to properly mount the speakers. They are all secured with copious amounts of rivets and seam sealer. A light amount of deadener was used on the van (not pictured). The OEM door panels went on top for a stock look. There was a fair amount of rattle chasing. The cables that operate the rear and sliding doors rattled, along with the trim for the center rear view mirror. Gains were set with a DD1. 5db overlap. limited EQ in the Fix 86 was set with a mic and pink noise. Had to set the Crossovers on the front tweeters at -4db. OEM center dash channel was disconnected. It is a POS and as best as I can tell some sort of compensation for the beaming tweeters to help out the front image / stage. Stock dash tweeter placement beams badly. Aiming them at the center rear view mirror made things 1000% better (still using the stock location). Would do it again.

Water Bear nailed it on the other forum! I cross posted this. I had a bad ground which I was assuming was good. What happened was my ground port on the amp would get a reading of 7 volts when I would connect battery cable. Remove battery cable and ground returned to ground which out voltage. I connected ground directly to battery as water bear recommended and all worked okay. I did end up finding a factory ground in my spare wheel well which is what I’m using now. All good and working again.

Found some snow! ft. dog who gave herself brainfreeze

Saw the latest purchases post was archived so here's as good as anywhere Got it a few months ago, 91 Johnson Phantom

Looks solid! ------------------- I think you're on the right track using tinned OFC for exterior wire, but saving a few bucks using raw OFC for interior. Nothing wrong there. Nice to see another hydraulic crimper user. Only thing I'd add is to mind the lugs you use. Closed ended, tinned copper lugs are the way to go. Solder and crimp lugs are quite different! For heat shrink on exterior wiring: Make sure ya grab adhesive lined. Or, if that's not in the cards for one reason or another, you can get away by putting a thin layer of high temp hot glue over the area, then putting the heat shrink over that and warming until the glue melts and oozes out. Not as cheesy as it sounds, that's all the weather-sealed heat shrink is - just pre-applied for ease of use. I'd also get some wiring loom to add some protection to the cable. Bumps and abrasion can take their toll over the years. Get the woven variety - less apt to trap and hold moisture than the plastic corrugated stuff. ------------------- Other notes: - Don't forget the grommet when passing wires into the vehicle. Butyl putty is awesome for sealing stuff up and excluding salt/moisture long-term. It doesn't cure - stays soft like chewing gum. - Can also consider a pass-thru bulkhead if that's up your alley - Alternator wise, mechman, singer are the favorites. I've used DC power and been happy but that was many years ago. Not sure where they stand now

Regardless of the issues you may have two 12s in such a big vehicle is too little cone area for such a big vehicle, SUVs need at least 2 15s in a highly efficient enclosure to get decently loud. Of course if your enclosure is bad and / or your installation / settings are no good performance will be bad regardless of what you own.

got the excess cut fromt he corners and had to call it a night ran out of daylight , i have 2 panels to install in the top of the box tommorow morning and then i can work on fiberglassing and sealing the inside before i put the outser layers on

So bear with me as this may get a bit long. The first step is the box, you have a big rectangle port fully internal BUT then looking at the pic you have a fully external port that is clearly smaller that I imagine goes through the ski hole and that has a different (smaller) port area and port length that you don't specify. To match your box specs you should only have a fully internal port 56 square inches in area and 16 in length. That external extension lowers the overall tuning and also reduces the port area significantly.

The low end solution is using a couple of Y adapters to connect to the 4 channel amp to the head unit but you wouldn't have fader control so the best solution is what you have picked and will work with your head unit no problem. The high end solution is getting a DSP but honestly for an entry level system that solution is probably not worth it.

Hi Karkov, long time no see, honestly I would avoid a 10" sub at all costs, they are extremely inefficient and the box size is not that different, so your box is about 1.35-1.4 before sub displacement, a standard box for a DC Audio 12" is 1.5 net so almost same box size being the 12" much louder for the watt, it looks like Fi simply does not make 10" subs anymore likely for that reason. If you still want to use that box simplest would be reverse mount the sub if you don't want to sand a little the mounting hole of the box, if you want to use a sub with a lesser mounting hole diameter you can use a MDF ring to install it. Your port area is limited also so subs above 2K and high excursion subs like Sundown X will find themselves in a low port area box, if you are interested in a particular sub post below and I will check it for you.

mine

Some pictures of build progres Amp rack + sub box DONE Front stage A Pilars and tweeter pods DONE

Don't think Bluetooth has anything to do with it but you can place the same files on USB and see what happens. You could get some different test tones from elsewhere. Also a you should cold reset your head unit before any tests, all setting should be at zero. But as I told you I would test the DD-1 to be working correctly before reaching any conclusions.

post it up on facebook group '' alternators classifieds ''

My 2 cents.....generally tuning up higher like you are really doesnt gain you as much loudness as you think. This is why tuning lower is more preferable in the big picture. If you really want both a bandpass style box is what you can aim for if you have the room.

You can connect phones, players, etc to the amp not only head units to see if you get the same hiss levels. Just need a cheap cable adapter to do so. BTW what amp is it?

Reverse mounting helps with a tight box for the sub in question mainly, in a regular sized box will help very little, in any case reverse mounting won't break anything in most cases, the internal volume change is usually small.

the Zcon's little brother ! , put them on a 4k amp - DeafBonce AAK 4000 , Ampere Audio 3800 , Crossfire 4000 , those are three i would choose from .. if they are dual 1's , run them at 1 ohm , if they are dual 2 , run em at half ohm ...

get a Korean made half bridge amp , not a Brazilian full bridge amp . i guess to each his own , but though the prices are tempting , i would rather pay more for a Korean amp that i know will hold up . if your going with Taramps for the price , get a JP23v2 (2800 watts)for 379.00 or a JP33 (3300 watts)for 599.00

If I'm not mistaken, the smart 3 and the bass smart 3 are essentially the same thing, except the bass smart 3 is designed to work better with subwoofer applications than the original smart 3, being they are both full range amps.

Ported enclosures are louder for the watt than sealed enclosures like you have, so I guess your question is if there is something in between the large ported boxes and a sealed, so I came up with a smaller ported box for your sub that still let you experience most of the benefits of ported designs while not being as bulky. If size is suitable and you have a trunk car you can build or have someone build the following:

Wrong, I still cant understand how people think this or maybe you worded it wrong but the DD-1 will NEVER measure clipping. You will have distortion long before clipping is ever seen on an oscilloscope. Once the red light on the DD-1 lights up you hit 1% THD so by the time the wave is becoming deformed on an oscilloscope you are so far beyond that 1% THD that the DD-1 is looking for.

I'm sorry, I was talking about the voltage controller on my truck. Not external. But you've already helped me. I was talking to you through email yesterday. Thanks again! I really appreciate it!

console is all done came out great time for some distribution blocks also jasper jig broke had to cut them by hand lol