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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/07/21 in Posts

  1. I always wanted to strap 2 amps together and test them. Since i am dropping these two into my Ford F250 soon, i figured today was a good day to do that! For info on this amp visit http://www.b2audio.com More specs on this amp (pdf file) here https://www.b2audio.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/rage_amps_man_090119.pdf Thanks for watching if you did!
    4 points
  2. We made a BUNCH of 3/0 AWG custom cables for Ron's Gen 3 Dodge Diesel Truck. We also set him up with a lime green 370A Mechman alternator. He did all the installation per our guidelines. He supplied his own battery terminals and red wire covering . . . He brought it by and we put the carbon pile on it. Now, this thing is kinda' like D'Amore's honeybadger - it don't give a shit. The results were mighty impressive. The screen shot I captured was at idle (800 rpm). We also measured the voltage drop between the alternator and the battery which we had the carbon pile connected. The sun was in the absolute wrong spot at that time so the photos with the meters was washed out, unfortunately. However, who would like to guess the difference in voltage measurements between the two meters, given the following? 315A - at operating temp, at rpm Meter 1 - red to Alt output stud and black to case of alt Meter 2 - red to battery (+) and and black to (-) terminals on passenger side battery This is known as a voltage drop analysis when you look at the difference of voltage between any two points in a circuit. Ideally, we like to see such measurements differ by less than 3%. This shows us if the circuit is optimized or has room for improvement. Keep in mind that any voltage drop is voltage loss, and is converted to heat vs work. So, guesses? And by the way, all alternators have losses due to heat when mounted to an engine in an hot engine bay. We like to see that 15% or less under load while the alternator is at operating temp. So, this Mechman unit delivered the goods as always.
    3 points
  3. Holy smokes its me again. So I bought an old school Alienware Predator case on the cheap and wanted to throw my current rig in it for pure nostalgia purposes. For those that don't know, these PCs were the BEES KNEES back in 02-05 and was my dream PC. So bought a case on ebay for 200 bucks that looked in decent shape to start. Equipment - CPU- AMD 5800x 3.8ghz GPU - AMD 6900XT 16gb RAM - G Skill 32gb 3600mhz HD - Seagate Firecuda 1TB m.2 Motherboard - ASRock Tiachi x570 Watercooler - AIO 360 radiator (6) 120mm EZDIY rgb fans Monitor - Samsung 49" Odyssey G9 Speakers - Klipsch RP15 with a 10" Klipsch subwoofer First had to take it all apart and start sanding for new paint. What it looked like when I got it, Plasma purple in somewhat decent shape, lots of scratches. Threw on some spray-on bedliner to coat the inside metal case black (no more retro steelie) Everything loaded in External Paint is a Ford explorer black metallic Finished product
    3 points
  4. it wont stop raining here so i havent done anything util today. managed to get some stuff done this morning before it started again. This round im gonna try to seal off the trunk again and fire forward. gonna do a better job of sealing off this time though. Started out making a template and transferred that to wood and so on and so forth. Going to need some trim pieces for this gap obviously. this part was a pain in the ass to be honest. Myu solution will require a bit of bodywork and filler to flush it out but its not bad. A couple of rectangle pieces and a wedge or two with a weird angle on them should fill this in nicely Made the cutout for the box to fit into. The box is going to sit flush up against the back of this coutout. Here is the base the box will sit on Added some side panels to help seal off. i think i will screw the box into these to make sure its secure. maybe not, i dont know. would be nice to easily remove the box but i dont want any leaks either. Box will sit like this Thats all for today. gotta pull all this out again and then put sound deadener over all the holes i can find so its sealed off really good. then i need a lower trim piece for the front will probably body work the front panel to smooth out all the lines and hide the business end of stuff. I may just wire up everything to make sure the box doesnt have any terrible flaws before i get crazy. i have plenty of depth to work if i need to change anything. i only had about 5 hours to work today, so i didnt get much progress but i guess any progress is good lol. Thanks for looking!
    3 points
  5. me too! ive always wanted to do one. this one came out a little janky but now i know what mistakes i made and have a better plan for the next one! heres some more pics I dont like these corners sticking out, just asking to get broke off. that takes care of that! All finished up. might paint it later The next step is to toss it in the trunk and see how it sounds. i have a feeling my tuning is gonna be a bit higher than i wanted but thats no big deal. i think i want to seal off the cabin of the car and fire this forward into the cabin from the trunk. The lkast time it tried it i half assed it and it didnt work too well. so maybe i'll get it right this time \
    3 points
  6. had to kinda test how many kerf to make. i know hunter martin made a guide but who knows where it is anymore'='' second kerf cut made it looks a bit wonky in this view, i went the wrong way, or too far anyway. it wont matter once its all glued up and forced into place and shape. thats all im ding for today. i'll gp do some more work tomorrow. i think i shoulld have cut the speaker hole out first but as long as i clamp this down tiight and flat it will be fine. i'll add a second baffle when i ge to that point. thanks for looking
    3 points
  7. The list of "150db" leader board on term pro, in just DB drag, is about 47 pages long. Just in the 1k class. Most, have 2 drivers, and not 18's. Your vehicle plays a big role in metering efficiency. If all you are doing, is chasing numbers, Id rethink your entire set up. (To me, the Fi btl, is one of the most rad drivers out there,.. i love them, especially for a daily ground pounder, but hey, do you)
    3 points
  8. Also got my rock lights back to working. Had a lil hiccup when the lift was installed. Got them repaired, and working again. 20220526_000307.mp4
    3 points
  9. True, TRUE sq, can get out of hand fast, budget wise. Speaker location, is huge, as well as direct over buying 4000 dollar focal rigs. Ive never done a sq build, but, buying seperates, over comp sets seems ideal to me (what ive done) as well as processing, time alignment, location, direction, sound dampening, vehicle resonance at specific frequencies, and such, then, that brings in tools. You will want/need a good mic, laptop/3software, and such, to show you bandwidth, peaks, valleys, direction, TA, and such. (Where a good dsp will help) Source can be huge, lossless files/music is a full other bag of monsters.... A true sq oriented building is super satisfying and SUPER involved. Most say SQ, and most just have decent gear in oem locations, and it sounds ok, and they call it sq. Gear,.. bring money. Most SQ guys, won't run anythkng but class A, or class AB. They are large amps, that make more heat than your generic class d turd. (See Tonys big boy, sq class holy fuck amplifer line, things cost more than my entire build) So, its all up to you, how far you wanna go down the rabbit hole. Cheers and good luck. (I think most that say SQ, TRUE SQ, really dont have any idea what they are getting into, but, if you're willing, anything is doable no doubt)
    3 points
  10. Hey guys! It's been a LONG time. I decided I would hop on here and share a couple of builds I have going on right now. my roommate and best friend Stephen just bought a Jetta Sportwagen TDI, and he has big plans for it. We started off with window tint (5% ceramic tint all the way around) and a stereo to replace that awful factory bluetooth setup. Today, we built the box and put it all together. I sold him some old Skar VVX 12 v3s and an RP1500.1D I had in my 4Runner (stay tuned for a build on that 4Runner soon!). Upcoming is KW Coilovers, Rawtek full exhaust, CR170 turbo, Malone Stage 3 tune and some head porting. First is tinting. Picking up wood in my Blackwood! No bed ftl lol. Equipment! Design Time to build! Time to put her in! She hides pretty well! lol. Stay tuned for more!
    3 points
  11. Since its an SIA amp, you most likely (or your "friend that knows more") have the crossover settings on the amp all wrong for sub use, it's a common issue with people that know it all but never messed with a full bridge full range amp before. It's so bad of an issue of this self proclaimed professional installers that been doing this forever send perfectly working amps back as bad amps for warranty. Watch this video which explains what the crossovers do and how to set them, since its a full range amp the crossovers basically work oppisite/backkwards of what they do on a typical sub amp that just outputs a low pass only signal.
    3 points
  12. Been awhile guys and I’m laughing at myself and some of the things I’ve said on this build log lol. Feel like I’ve learned a decent bit about car audio since I’ve been active on this build log but anyways box is drying as we speak with its final coating of paint. Waiting on my alternator from Dc power to come in and will be ordering headway cells (doing a battery delete) to make a bank.
    3 points
  13. Ive had 8 amps, on one remote line. Never had a issue.
    3 points
  14. Here are the Skar EVL (Yellow) and the Resilient Gold (orange) on your box specs. The Resilient Gold it looks they can work in a larger net volume than the skar, in fact their spec tops at 2.5 net per driver, they even have larger Xmax to back it up. Conclusion: these subs will work just fine in your current box but you may gain some extra performance going with a larger box.
    3 points
  15. It almost looks like a grey scaled filter or something...but it isn't. This photo is real life. green ain't exactly my favorite color but it does look good here! that's all for today! new video coming tomorrow!
    3 points
  16. Cover is held with magnets Template to make a recess Since it's been so long. This is what it powers
    3 points
  17. Crazy design built crazy fast but I do agree with you, if you enjoyed the outcome, in the end it's all that matters.
    3 points
  18. Thats 100% not the glue that they use on dustcaps. Also the way the surround is unevenly pulled away from the basket edges is rather jank So this was apparently rebuilt by someone with very little experience in building woofers. This is not Sundown quality and something like this wouldnt be sold as new. Your audio dealer is trying to play you for a fool, so I would throw this threw his shop window and put a gun to his head and tell him to give back your money.
    3 points
  19. ^^^ Yup, especially when your on a tiny island surrounded by salty ocean like he is because that process is nothing but sped up with that salty moist air!
    2 points
  20. My FB feed is full of my buddys headin to Surf City as of late. That is one large show, ive never had the privilege of getting to, but looks like a freaking ball.
    2 points
  21. Not a ton accomplished over the past few weeks.. Almost complete with a pillars. Totally underestimated the Fab required.. these are the 1st time I've tried to make pillars in my life. Flocked them, still need to cover the grab handles. Also need to make the cloth cover with a MDF ring, the 3d printed ring warped BIGTIME in the sun Assembled the 3rd & 4th banks of lithium & supercaps. Mounted in the rear and started deciding where to place the distribution block Terminated belden cat6a to WBT ends(legitimate rca's - not the eBay specials lol) ran cat6 & rj45 to amps & processor in center console Installed arc 6.0s in the door
    2 points
  22. Here are the doors! All 4 doors done. Material is crocodile. Each door has 2 8s and 1 bullet tweeter. Fab done by Phat Boyz! EDIT: first image is front doors, last image back doors.
    2 points
  23. Honestly I hate those things. MDF doesn't lend itself well to inserts of any sort. If you want threads, the best way to do it would be to laser out some rings from sheet steel, drill and tap those, bolt that to the back side of your baffle, then secure the driver to that. Barring that, the screws I've had the best luck with are some spax #8 multi material construction screws.
    2 points
  24. So I mounted them quick to get an idea, fed them from a b2 rage 2500.1 at 2ohm so they saw 2k.. Honestly thought it'd be a touch louder on 2k. Definitely over 150db for sure though (comparing to my older systems which I've metered). Either way, when all said & done they'll see 8k.. slightly more power lol. Did a little trim work & wrapped the amps in a vinyl. The beauty panel upper portion around the port will also be wrapped in the forged carbon vinyl & the lower half around the subs will be black suede. I'll have trouble wiring the amps as it's REAL tight. We'll see
    2 points
  25. Found that the head unit is clean to full/max volume. Set the sub amplifier at -7.5db overlap. I was close, but now I know the head unit is clean (my biggest want) and the board is set with my prefered overlap. Good shit. Gets down ok. Next, is fighting the roof rattles. I want to get into the headliner, put some mass up there in a few specific areas, and i think thatll help a ton. Also ran sweeps and saw what the vehicle and enclosure like. It has a super flat responce, barely losing a db in 20 herz. It has a nice nice "peak" around 28hz, and then again around 40hz. Its kinda acting like a band pass. I dig it. Im glad the vehicle resonates low. On to rattle fighting. 20220523_131052.mp4
    2 points
  26. After months of fixing things I rushed the first time around and learning allot my build is almost done just gotta install my external voltage regulator also the box is temporary for now it’s a little small 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan -sundown zv4 with fresh rebuild all NSV3 parts from audio apex -jp43 on the sub -sfb200.4 on mids and highs -stinger 2250 -390amp alfha audio hairpin alternator -4 skar 6x9s and a set of Mtx thunderbolt components up front -2 runs of 0 guage to the back 2 engine grounds 3 grounds to the frame 3 ground to the battery i think that’s all I’m really enjoying it my first ever build let me know what you guys think!
    2 points
  27. I went with a Gately. Super nice, built like a tank, look good, and have PROPER specs for most drivers. Expensive? Yep...... Worth it? Was to me. I didnt want to build a enclosure, dont have the time, and all my tools are an hour and change north of my home atm. So, i clicked buy, got it 5 days later. Done and done. Check em out,.. pick one that will work for your drivers, chuck it in, power it up, and let it eat. Dunno if you know who Tony Damore is. He also bought a Gately the same week i did. His looks awesome (under the rear seat of his big ford) (I really really like the color choice also. Looks tits imho, and is the proper size, rad looking kerf, tune/vent area for the drivers i chose) EDIT here is the link to scope em out. https://skyhighcaraudio.com/gately-audio-17/
    2 points
  28. This. Now, if you're looking to improve on the factory sound without going crazy (which I think is what you're alluding to) cost wise don't get too hung up on multiple amps and processors. EXCELLENT results have been had with a simple 4ch amp for mids/highs and a good monoblock powering a modest subwoofer. A good set of components in the factory locations and a small 10"-12" (hell even a good quality 8" is lots for a true sq system not based on overall sound output) sub will be miles ahead in sq than the factory system. Your biggest challenge will be making it all play with the factory system. If you're lucky you can bypass OEM amplification and retain full bandwith signals for your aftermarket amps. If that isn't an option then you'll have to research which OEM integration processors best fit your needs and budget.
    2 points
  29. Before i take these 2 strapped B2 audio Rage 2500.1 amps off the bench, I wanted to drop the impedance down and run them again. 1.33 ohms = .665 (or .67) each when strapped. Will they smoke? how much power will they put out? well watch the video and see for yourself! WOW!
    2 points
  30. You have 706 square inches of cone area with the four 15's and two 18's would only be 508 square inches and your measurements with a double baffle gives you 16.70 cubic feet of space. You would be better buying new 15's with good xmax capabilities to get the windy outcome.
    2 points
  31. An isolator is suggested if you're going to be play with the engine off for XYZ reason. As Hermetic said, hooking up to an external charger while doing this is ideal, but I understand if situations don't allow. You can get some pretty high output power supplies too. I have zero experience nor recommendation for this product, but spec wise, something like this would be what you'd want. https://www.amazon.com/PowerMax-PM4-100A-Converter-Battery/dp/B01ER3LH5W Battery-wise: I don't mean to sound pedantic, but AGM batteries are lead-acid. There are 3 main general constructions, with 3 subsets: Flooded, AGM, and Gel. With the subsets being starting, mixed used, and deep-discharge. Flooded - most common battery. Pretty much the one you'll get if you walk into a store and go 'hey gimme a battery.' This has the lead plates immersed in a liquid electrolyte. These batteries often(though not always) have removable caps for adding electrolytes, and also must be mounted upright due to a spill hazard. - Pros: --- Cheap --- Readily available --- Somewhat more tolerant to over-charging or bad float voltages as you can top of the electrolyte with distilled water - Cons: --- Plate coatings can break off, essentially removing itself from the battery and reducing capacity --- Not tolerant to vibration --- Spill hazard --- Can freeze at very low temperatures and burst the casing / damage internally AGM - this takes the electrolyte from a flooded battery and puts it into a fiberglass sponge instead. Optima are probably the most common day-to-day example you'll see of this construction. - Pros: --- Better low temperature resistance - sponges aren't saturated, therefore a freeze has room for expansion --- Lower spill hazard (though not zero) --- Vibration resistant as the glass mats help secure the internal coatings in place --- Suited to high current draw situations - Cons: --- Less tolerant to over-charging as they typically don't have a means of servicing the electrolyte. I've done it before, but that really isn't the use case --- More expensive Gel - Uses silica to turn the electrolyte into a paste / jelly - Pros: --- Zero spill hazard under any condition. You typically see these in mobility scooters and whatnot. --- Stable for deep discharge use, potentially longer lifespan than other constructions for this purpose - Cons: --- Not tolerant to over-charging or high current use. At all. Subconstructions: - Starting: more, thinner plates to decrease internal resistance. Great current output, though less tolerant to deep discharge use as the plates will flake their coatings off more easily - Deep discharge: thicker, sturdier plates designed to handle the chemical stress of being drained from 100 to 0 and back again. Higher internal resistance, will incur more voltage drop under load. - Mixed use: in-between of these two construction types. Now for your isolator and light dimming: There are 2 main types of isolators. Active (solenoid) and passive (diode) A solenoid based isolator is basically a giant relay/switch that connects the contacts together when you turn the key on. This will offer the least resistance / voltage drop in the system. A diode based isolator uses a pair of high current diodes to prevent back-flow between 2 sets of batteries. Diodes will incur a 0.7v drop across them, along with any heat that will produce. 200 amps at 0.7v is 140 watts of heat that would need to be dealt with. Along with other concerns with respect to alternator control - 14v at the alternator will only be 13.3 at the battery. If your lights are dimming, that's a result of equipment being able to draw very sharp bursts of current that take you from alternator voltage ~14v, to battery voltage ~<13v. In either scenario, an isolator won't help you with the engine running. If the car is off, then it will, as your vehicles electrical system will be effectively separated from the draw. If you want to fix this, you have 2, maybe 4* options: 1*. Install a large capacitor as close to your starting battery as possible to smooth the voltage fluctuations. It'll still happen, just less noticeable 2. Run dual alternators. Stock alternator handles the vehicle's electrical. Second alternator handles your audio gear. You'd be running 2 discrete electrical systems in your vehicle. 3. Replace various bulbs with some sort of regulated unit - anything that has it's own power supply. Headlights for example could be retrofitted to HID or LED and there would be no dimming. Interior bulbs might take some researching, if such a thing even exists. Most are just 'dumb' units. You'd want to look for something that is explicitly non-dimmable 4*. Modify the wiring in your vehicle. Find which circuit handles interior lighting, and install a dc-dc buck regulator on that. Set the output to 11v or something lower than you'd drop voltage to, and let it compensate. tl;dr: - Generally speaking, you don't want to use an isolator unless you have an explicit need for one. Any isolator will add resistance and failure points to your circuit. - You should replace your starting battery with an AGM. Mixing battery constructions is a nono as AGM and Flooded will have different resting/float voltages, at ~13 and ~12.6 respectively. The flooded unit will incur a parasitic drain against your AGM when the vehicle is off.
    2 points
  32. ALWAYS! lol - we are car audio NUTS! Watching PSSound on Youtube does NOT help the cause either hahaha Will post again if I can get another tune or two in and give my impressions.
    2 points
  33. EVs still have a 12v side. Headlights, power outlets, windows, etc etc. 12v amplifiers will still work. I've heard that the Tesla DC-DC stepdowns are rated for somewhere in the 2-3kW range. So, for most users, not much of a difference there. For SPL, however? I'd anticipate shifting to amplifiers that don't rely on a step-up process to shift from 12v to XYZ internal rail voltage. Taramps comes to mind. Their larger units accept nearly 400vdc. I think we have a number of years before this happens though. And if/when it does, I'd anticipate it would be bordering a 'professionals only' hookup on account of several hundred volts of DC power coming from a system that can supply a couple hundred kW of power under normal operation. Very, very dangerous.
    2 points
  34. Awesome.... Good shit Steve. I own a Damore - 350.2, 400.4 and the 1000.1. I spoke with Tony,... and he told me, "dude, you may wanna wait a bit before ya buy the 1000.1". I didnt listen, and just got it anyway lol. He is a stud. Anyway, well shit, now i want to run the 1500. For those into them, and want a bit of info. The boards are great. Small, run cool. And if you know me, you know, i run all my gear hard. Not abuse it, but, i fucking run my junk. My shit doesnt sit in a spare room somewhere. From my vehicles, to my guns, camping gear, audio, all of it. I work hard, and i play hard, and my gear, needs to perform, or, i get something that does. These boards do, and for a great cost, and the build quality is top tier. I run 2 in my 4 runner currently, with a soon third (most likely the 1500, if i chose it over the 1000.1 i have). If your even thinking about one of these boards,.. click buy, and your welcome. KB
    2 points
  35. Very complicated. Dude has another video where he goes into depth about how he did it, but I couldn't find it. I've heard the same thing. My cousin used to work for Tesla as well, at the plant in Fremont CA, test driving a lot of the cars before they're shipped out. He said they're fun as hell. I'm not sold on the electric cars either. It takes too long to charge them, and even doesn't it say in the manual to not use the fast charge because it can prematurely damage the batteries? The range isn't good enough for me either. I want to be able to drive all day, 16-18 hours at least. Or, 5 minute charging that doesn't ruin the batteries overtime.... I'll concede to 10 minutes if I have to. Also, I'm a truck guy. No, not often to I have a trailer or a heavy load, but I do sometimes. I need to be able to drive more than 150 miles before I need to charge. Also, I'm lucky to be able to own a home with a 2 car driveway, but what about the people who don't? Are they supposed to run extention chords across the sidewalk? On top of all that, at least in California, the law makers keep telling our utility companies they need to shut down their power plants. They're having a hell of a ti me keeping up, even now. What happens when all these cars need electricity too? What happens to the batteries after they're spent? I read about a chinese company that is working on a lithium battery that, once it can't hold a charge anymore, they can actually recycle the lithium to hold a charge again. So that's a plus if they can figure it out. I fear that the market for easy car audio integration with large systems isn't popular enough to make anyone spend that kind of money on research and development to figure out easy solutions. I really think it'll die, which sucks.
    2 points
  36. I can't answer that question.... just wanted to pop in and say I'm fucking jealous!
    2 points
  37. Assuming you are running the SA12v2 at 2 ohm the SALT3 amp would deliver 1500W to the sub, if such is the case: With your port area of 30.25 square inches you would get about 25 m/s of vent airspeed in a [email protected] box which is acceptable. I think you are ok unless you were running the sub at 1 ohm, in that case you just limit the gain of the amp, worst thing that can happen is that the amp runs cooler. So again not a problem there either.
    2 points
  38. I found, that the 5th gen, has a fused, line, to sense turn on voltage. I got a GMC fuse, with a diode, that tricks the alt to see about 1 volt less, that its actually putting out. (like we use to do to alternators back in the day, to get a higher charge voltage, i use to do the same, but opposite, when running a tick higher voltage, but my amps didnt like 15v,.. id put a inline diode, and show the turn on wire, a volt down, and it did the trick) I would never see over 14v even cold as balls,... now, even hot. EDIT- Part number - General Motors, DIODE, 12135037
    2 points
  39. Do you know what brand alternator you where thinking about getting? Generally, if you go with a reputable, established company (which I highly suggest! Don't cheap out on the heart of your vehicle) then it's just drop it in, plug and play. Stock mounting holes, stock mounting hardware. You might need a smaller belt, maybe not. That depends on how your tensioner works on your engine and how much play you have in that, but a good way to figure out the difference is measure the diameter of the stock pulley, then measure the aftermarket pulley, and subtract the difference. That should get you in the ballpark.
    2 points
  40. Volume is after displacements. Net volume. Generally speaking, stick to spec. There's a 15-20% fudge factor in there that's still acceptable and can be tweaked to personal taste / needs, but 1.4 is really pushing it. If you don't have the space for a ported box, just run 'er sealed! I reckon you'd have an easier time with a properly sized sealed box vs. an improperly sized ported one. I'm going to generalize *really* hard here because there are a *ton* of variables.... But the issue with going too small on ported being that it's a resonance system, and losing air mass really boinks the behavior - your response curve will tend towards higher frequencies / peaky response. Sort of like how prefabs only really get loud on A Milli.
    2 points
  41. there is about 10 different ways i had in mind to do this logo...but i need to get this job finished. So i am going to go with this for now. I have made it removable so i can get it out and make something different if i don't like it. So far i LOVE IT. White, matte black, gloss black, mirror and clear. Just enough of an offset to make it look grey-scaled out.
    2 points
  42. There's a ground in there somewhere. There *has* to be BUT Don't get hung up on it. You're adding to your factory grounds, not replacing them. Ideally, if mounting positions allow: your best bet is to attach a ground to one of the mounting bolts on your alt. Barring that - a bigger/sturdier bolt / bracket you have access to that IS NOT part of a gasket. i.e. don't attach a ground to your valve cover.
    2 points
  43. small update: got my amplifier OEM male plug delivered today - will need to take some time to transfer the old plugs to this new one, solder and shrink wrap the connections. Nice thing is the pins on the back are easy to bend so I can make them straight and then trim to connect. I’ll be shrink wrapping the 12V power and ground to ensure they don’t mess with anything if the plug shifts under the seat while driving. tomorrow is TUNING DAY! Hoping I can get it done in a few hours (half day) but as it is my first real tune I’ll be taking my time. Will document and let everyone know how it goes!
    2 points
  44. found my way in. 2 12ga skyhigh caraudio OFC for the 6.5’s and 2 16ga for the 3” mids and 1.5” tweeters. Each pod is made of 3 layers of 3/4” HDPE and bolted to the door. Ill get to hear them soon after i wire up the top layer (speakers already mounted). Getting close!
    2 points
  45. 2 points
  46. about to take our T-shirt shirt (and other garment) capabilities to the next level. Picked up this Ricoh 2000 (just arrived today). Its such a beast! We had to forklift it in
    2 points
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