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I also added a nice hook to it so I can hang the hose out of the way when not in use or when moving. That 1/2" air line used to feed my entire shop. I left it on there and this thing can fill a tire FAST. I left the secondary air fitting on it as well in case I need to hook up another one at the same time or use a smaller hose. All in all I am just so happy to get this back and for it to be like this. Brand new cartridge for the air dryer, new crank, fresh oil, a nice wipe down and some wheels....It's Better than ever!

This very genuinely might be a question better suited for your doctor and / or device manufacturer Stay safe bud

run a dedicated circuit for the fans to isolate them from your stereo. you can still use the remote wire to turn them on, but you will want to run a relay to give proper power to the fans. it could also be interference from the motors of the fans. as they spin, they create a magnetic field, and if the fan is close enough to RCAs that don't have the best shielding it could be introducing noise into the signal.

In your case, having to ask, I'd keep it as OE as possible, don't opt for the PCM bypass or their "boosted harness", which could trigger the CEL, and give you problems down the road with passing smog which will auto fail if the CEL is triggered. With it being a 95, it's doubtful the alternator is even controlled by the PCM, but every vehicle is different. Depending on how much power you're pulling with the off road lighting, two extra batteries wired in for reserve should be plenty to keep voltage above 13v.

yo long time no see

Huh....

The ole DC coil stink. Get use to it.

So there's a drawing I did when I was a wee lad Boys never grow up. Their toys just get bigger I guess I guess I can never leave well enough alone though. I got the thing home and took a wrench to it. Skid plate, crash bars, light bar, headlight grill, switch mount, usb charger, quadlock, heated grips, hand guards, frame scuff guards, dashcam, radiator guard Now I just need the weather to cheer up so I can learn to ride the thing LOL

If your amp does everything right except for overheating is most likely because of installation/operation error, said that if you continue using it like that it will fail without a doubt, common causes of overheating include: - bad grounding / wiring - low impedance loading - low input voltage - clipping - subsonic filter not properly set - poor ventilation, sometimes you can install fans if the amp needs to be in a poorly ventilated location Also is very possible that if those issues are not corrected a new amp will also overheat, so fix or have someone fix the issues and if the system is not playing loud enough then yes get a better amp, more subs or whatever. Since you have a single 1/0 wire it could source up to a 2K or so amp, if you get an amp with multiple 1/0 inputs you will probably need to upgrade your full electrical system too.

The good news is that the car cabin gain that bass box pro uses by default (you can enter measured gain data for your vehicle) is for an infinitely stiff car cabin, which is never the case for real vehicles so that big peak you see in reality will not be as big. The other thing is that you can reduce the peak by many means without building the 6th order box, one of them is by using damping materials (poilyfiil, dacron, etc.) inside the box, here is a comparative plot using and not using damping material: As you can see the peak is more reasonable in size and the advantage of this method is that you can use a lot, or little of it and even take it all away as you see fit. Yet another method is by using a parametric equalizer or a flexible DSP to try to customize your frequency response. The disadvantage of these methods and the reason they are almost never used is that they kill output.

Yep, parameters were pulled using DATS V2 then inputted into Bassbox Pro.

https://www.ohiocaraudioshow.com/events/the-ohio-car-audio-show-2026 Finally going to my first real show this year. Just wondering if anyone here will be there, or knows of which builds usually are. Quite looking forward to it!

Actually 2 12s will give similar output as a single 18 on the same power, if you gave twice the power you would get louder than a single 18 and you can go higher than twice the power, likely 5-6 K is possible. A single 15 you can do but due to the significant difference in cone area you would need a lot of power to reach a 18, it would be very expensive not for the amp, amp is cheap but for the electrical, the 15 would likely really need twice the power to rival a 18, about 3dB is what a 18 has on a 15. If you still want a 15 check out steve's videos on the new deaf bonce 15s, looks like those subs are highly efficient due to the gigantic motors, no t/s params for them yet but for sure will be one of the loudest 15s ever out there.

In your situation I would go for 2 12s, say the sundown M12s, total cone area is near a 18 and 4.5 cubes net and 70-80 square inches of port area will be enough for them. You can then upgrade the power later if you want and go louder than the single 18 would be able to. Wanting to have a 15 to sound as loud as a 18 on the same power is rather difficult, you usually need like twice the power on the 15 to reach the output of the 18 and then it can be done but it is more expensive, you need a better electrical, amp and sub.

Yeah.... They gave me a confused look and said they would need to check with one of their colleagues... They said as long as I'm not close to the speaker, the most that will happen is it'll think I'm exercising or moving around and bump my heart rate up.. Just listen to what's comfortable. Thanks, still have a few more tests to see if my heart's going to get worse, or not. Either way the pacemaker is there to stay, just didn't expect it in my mid-30s.

cone area is king in most cases. If those 2 12's are still pounding stick with them! IMO. I think...lol

Time to see if it actually fits. Had to remove the wheels to put the new bracket over the same holes. The bolts were plenty long enough to pass through the now 1/2" of steel plate.

Once I had this rolling and working again, I was very thrilled to say the least. But there was a piece of the puzzle missing. My new Quincy that is now the primary compressor has a built in air dryer and oil/water separators of it's own. But my original Cam Air dryer was laying around like a $900 piece of garbage and I didn't like that. Plus, I want the air to be as dry as possible even if it is filling up tires and doing less essential duties. So I designed a second plate to accommodate that too!

You can wrap with any material of your preference... in my opinion i'd get the low spots out, leveled out, add texture and paint to match the interior. that's just me though.

Thanks for the tips. I have beads already for my sniper efi. Do I put the beads on rca cables or on the fan wires

No worries its the RF transmitters you have to worry about hence cb radios ham radios ECT...

Your port is choked at 3" much worse if it's 2" so you are no good there, you should at least have 5" which is the port width as shown in your sketchup. I generally tune 33-34Hz for a louder experience with enough low end, obviously if you hear slowed stuff you will still want those lower tunings. At the same time if you are into those deep low ends, you pick something like the Sundown X, the SAs are more adequate for regular music. That is the X series takes more advantage of the low tuning, for those Sundown will recommend 32Hz.

Google ferrite beads they are amazing

Like this is a 6th order wall: It is a series type 6th order so WinISD can not model it, you can use Bassbox pro or hornresp to model it.

if im understanding correctly it would be like you left one coil unhooked from the amp so you were blasting the remaining coil with all the power. as long as they ohm out fine and they dont make any funny noises you are probably fine. just hook it up the right way and let it rip.

So because he has 2 giant 33inch subs its a home SPL system and not a home theater?? LMAO He has a 9.2.2.4 Surround system with 9 surround speakers, 2 subs, 2 transducers, and 4 atmos speakers. All are Klipsch speakers besides the 2 B2 33" subs, 19 channels of Audiocontrol amplification being driven by an Audiocontrol DSP of which all this is made and designed for home theater use... But I guess again this is not home theater, maybe the 98" Bravia TV isnt large enough and he needs a projector to have a home theater...

Jl does have a home audio line. Its so overpriced only the 1% can afford it. Meade does have a system. Not sure i would call it a theater. Its more of a home spl system. I ordered speaker power amps. Made with iceedge modules.

Isolators are worthless unless you plan on leaving the engine off while bumping.. I run 4/0 + and - front to back in my S10 for a four 15 setup and it is a SQL setup with zero alt whine ECT.. If you know what you are doing you do not have issues .. My best advice is be careful who you get your advice from lol

A lot of folks gonna bash me for saying this but for what you are running just get a prefab box tuned 32.. I would suggest not mounting the amp to it because of possible box flex from a prefab.. Now I do have all my amps mounted on my 4th order box but it's three layers thick all the way around lol Keep us posted bro ...

No you can't install an alternator in a hybrid vehicle, even if you somehow made it work, remember that the mechanical engine is not running all the time so how would you make sure your battery or batteries remain properly charged? What you could likely do is use high voltage power input amps like they are used in pure electrical vehicles such as the Taramps HV series to connect to your main battery. That would need to be done by a pro for selection of the amp, installation and to set the recommended maximum current draw to that main battery to avoid vehicle malfunction. Installing yourself could result in vehicle exploding or getting burn down so have that in mind.

I found a dsp idea I'm going with. Running two hertz s8 dsp's . They have everything i need. Is there better hell yea but gets what i need done for cheap.

i found a loose ground as i had most of the wires out recently to put ferrules on the wires going to amp. Is adhesive lined shielding foil tape worth anything? one of them is a MT-1000 (700@2ohm), the other is ZD-750.4D (400@4ohm). i got a second because my car has electric power steering and i wanted more reserve capacity. It starts like a champ in -20 despite both those batteries being at least 10 years old. edit; i'm going to remove that ground splice, going to sand the paint off of the bracket where the ground attaches to, and possibly redo the amp mounting to stack them vertically instead of beside eachother.

I have a four 15 blow through in my single cab S10 and love it bro, I have a Basshaulic fourth design for 2x15 and a 4x15 I will be glad to give ya if that would help ya.. They will be free if ya interested bro...

im not just hyping the product, i really believe in it!! After redoing my entire system (as you saw) i FINALLY did my doors and floors. I was SERIOUSLY lacking in those areas although my hatch and roof were already done - i can with 100% honesty, no bullshit, not trying to sell anything, tell you that my OLD, 2001 Tahoe feels BRAND NEW driving down the road. Bass, elimination of rattles and system sounding better overall is the ultimate goal - but the BEST side effect of all is the extreme reduction in road noise. You get used to it and dont realize it is there until its GONE. The Second Skin install in combination with the new Pirelli Tires that i have been raving about (reduced road noise, smoother ride) have done WONDERS for the feel of my 7 yr old vehicle. To add to that, the new system is 100% noise free, no alt whine or engine noise - so its ALL good and everything sounds and feels very TIGHT. Anyway, its more noticeable every single day as i roam the different streets of Sacramento on my daily missions LOL - i really just wanted to send a shot out to Second Skin and Ant for having a great product!

Yes, in my world, you are a noob. I am 20 yrs older then you. To your buddies, you probably are not. I was using sound deading in my ride when you were in diapers. To you that means nothing but to me it says a lot. Im not threatening you with a banning but im telling you if your going to shit on my thread with your nonsense while at the same time telling me i dont know what im talking about, then you wont be posting here. That shit is annoying. You have a history of being an annoying know it all. I have said it to you before, i heard your point, i didnt delete it, but then you wont shut up so now i have to start deleting them. Victim of marketing BS? ok mr. know it all. Hey everyone, take your deading products out because some noob named meglo says its no good. LOL ya that will fly. How is this even a debate? Why am i even arguing with you......deadening products DO work. I have news for you, your posts arent that informative. No one missed anything. whats this 100% coverage shit about? are you on meds? you need some? Of course there area places you dont NEED to put it. A big flat floor pan like mine or even with some corrugation to it will benefit from a layer or two or even three. Door panel will definitly benefit no matter what. A Rigid, multi layer, corrugated, structural piece of metal like the "A pillar" or at the door sill (where its usually really thick) probably wont help much. We already know this. That wasnt the point of this thread. Read the title jackass. I did my floors and doors and it made a difference. Ego? I dont have a large ego at all. People think that when they get their feelings hurt. I had one crybaby kid even tell me "man you changed in the last few months"....because he got his feelings hurt over nothing. Well you know what, i am 38 and i have not changed in the 10yrs let alone a few months LOL. Im the same person i ever was. I will learn from someone younger for sure if they have something that is worth listening to. oh and for anyone else who is a competitor, NOT like meglomaniac who just talks on forums, your score might go up from using SS or any other deadener. It also might go down. Some cars are louder ON THE MIC without it. That is for you to find out if you are chasing numbers. If you have a system you actually listen to on the daily and you want it to sound better as well as lose some road noise, i DEFINITLY say use it.

Mr."bang" if your on a mission to follow and discredit Ant and Second Skin in general, you have came to the wrong place. You strike me as someone who signed up JUST to do that so therefore you have no account here anymore. If you want to be here and play nice thats fine but i see right thru your inentions.

sorry man, you can type till your blue in the face and tell me i dont know what im talking about but in reality, you are a total noob. Your bullshit will not be spread in this section anymore and that goes for your buddy too. Go somewhere like CA.com and tell them all about it, maybe they will listen to you - i am here to tell you that what i did made a difference and i recommend it to anyone - and have since the DYNAMAT days. meglo, save it - if you post any more of your know it all bullshit in here you wont be posting here anymore. thanks.

Trust me, i "fully" know how sound deadening works LOL. The floor pan in my Tahoe is flat so no i wont be "reconsidering" my remarks - it made a tremendous difference. If you lay down a few layers on ANY floor it will help but it really helps where the pan is like mine, a huge wide open flat surface. That big wide open surface vibrates just like the doors do, in fact when the bass hits you can feel the floor on your feet. I get the air/structure born noise thing but there is both on the floor not just one or the other. The very back where it is corrugated, or "curved" as you put it, Is not going to reverberate as much but up front, it will. If you have factory deadening, you may not need to put DAP over it but if its like mine and has nothing it will for sure help. Here is a quote from the website and its also on the product brochures that came with the LL i got the other day. Luxury Liner Pro is designed to go on top of our vibration dampers to filter out, and block the transfer of the most difficult airborne sound waves. When used on top of Damplifier or Damplifier Pro, Luxury Liner Pro can help make any car quiet as a brand new luxury vehicle. The mass laoded vinyl barrier is very flexible and exceeds the industry standard for noise reduction uses. The closed cell foam decoupler is waterproof and extremely limp, allowing for easier installation and better noise reduction. The two components are not glued together, rather they are melted together for a perfect and permanent bond, stronger than any vinyl adhesive can provide. You may want to "reconsider" telling me to reconsider, before you start typing. I dont care what meglo says, if you have a big bare floor pan, even if it has some corrugation to it, it WILL help to put a layer or two of Deamplifier on it. If you got the dough, the LL will make it even better.

missed you guys see a few older names still active. had a few of y'all on the book. haven't had that for almost 2 years now. dumped my fresh built supermoto on its side in the truck the other day. have a pile of fucking audio from 2018ish sitting in a cardboard box. might get back into it sooner than later