reedal
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Everything posted by reedal
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There's no such thing as time in my life. I just do it before it gets dark after I come home every day.
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I've been playing around with the design with Torres and WinISD, but it's hard to find a medium between the two since they give different results. At least for a slot port. I need to try and do an aero design
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Good call on the glove box. I'll have to check it. Won't change anything, but it'll be good to know. Did you have to bend your parking brake pedal out of the way? If so, how did you do it?
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No, just a sealed pod. I want to see how it sounds first, and if needed I'll vent into the door. It will be SoundQubed's pro audio mids, with their component level tweeters. Do you think the mid will be better off vented into the doors?
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All dried up and ready for body filler and paint A little test fit. Has a little bit of a gap on the high side corner but I think once I actually mount it it'll be a snug fit. The drivers side 6.5 has the parking brake lever/pedal in the way though, any tips on bending it out of the way?
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Slowwwwwly getting the door pods ready for some speakers. Wrapped in fleece Getting ready for resin Remembered gloves this time And ready to dry Took the picture in the shade, but moved them into the sunlight afterwards. Hopefully I'll have them finished by next weekend. Won't get anything done tomorrow, and the wife will be home soon so I doubt I will have anything more done today either. In other news, I bought some rubber stoppers to put under the feet of my amps to help absorb some vibration and raise them up a bit for better cooling from underneath. Things that need to get done: -Design and build a new enclosure -Design and build a new amp rack -Purchase door speakers -Run more wire and ground for rear battery -Find a place to mount VM-1 If anyone follows this, sorry it's slow and not the greatest, but time and money are tight, I do what I can when I can.
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- soundqubed
- tahoe
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Replaced tensioner pulley to find out the A/C compressor fucked up the pulley. Now I need to replace the compressor... Not high on my to do list.
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I can fit two and still have A/C, maybe three. Everything for the A/C is on the opposite side of the engine bay from the alt location. I'm already planning on getting the dual bracket and keep the stock alt with my singer. I don't drop much on music as is with just the stock alt, D3400 under the hood and a D4700 in the back. Lowest I've gotten is 13.3. But I'm only wired for 2600 @ 2ohms/14.4v, so it's not like I'm pulling crazy amperage like most with SUVs.
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Nice. My car can't fit two alts
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I know my TB can fit two, I don't see how but it can with a bracket. I haven't seen a dual alt set up in a le sabre
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Without a doubt, it's imposisible for me to do any kind of work on a vehicle without finding a way to cut some part of my body. It's the little ones that feel the worst.
- Show previous comments 6 more
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the ones you don't know. it sucks when you wash your arms and you feel them
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The ones you don't know for sure, cause I use hand sanitizer often at work, and I'll all of a sudden start feeling burns and can't even see any cuts anywhere, never even bled.
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It could have just been the amp. Open it up and take pictures of the board (specifically any spots that look fried). Unless it's still under warranty, in which case get it warrantied. No one can tell you what happened without knowing exactly how it was hooked up and adjusted, etc. I know with my AQ 90x4 I just sent to SoundQubed to check out and touch up, the gain potentiometers are loose or something and with just the slightest wiggle or vibration (as caused by my subs) it will cause the channels to distort very audibly until they wiggle again and then it's back to normal until the next go around. Sometimes it's just the amp. I apologize for accusing you off the back of user error, but it just seemed like you were saying the DD-1 fried your amp. If you're able to open the amp and look at the board(s) without breaking any seals and voiding any warranty, do it, take good pictures, and post them for people to look at, and the people who are familiar with the circuitry of amplifiers might be able to help figure out what happened.
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Did you use your multimeter to check the voltage coming out of the amp on those channels after this started? Did you leave the speakers connected while you did it? What ohm load are they wired to? What do they read individually? Basic troubleshooting. Check all possibilities first.
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Did you follow the directions in the manual? That's as basic as it gets. All EQ's and frequency boosters and anything else set to flat? You didn't crank the gain all of the way up and let it sit? How do you know the amp is fried? Is power/protect led on or off? Is everything hooked up correctly (RCA's in all of the way) did you check to make sure there is voltage coming through the RCAS
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Ok. Cool. Congrats on your purchase. Your DD-1 can NOT damage your equipment. If your equipment is being damaged, it is entirely user/installer error, or manufacturing error.
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There's a thread on here about how to post pictures. Look it up.
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A/C tensioner is done-ski's. No using the A/C until that's replaced
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I'm thinking of the compressor
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Yeah, fuck a compressor. If that went out I would say fuck it I don't need A/C
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Lol
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So going through my pictures I realized I never captured the big three. Although the only important pictures are when new stuff arrives and box building anyways. Here's the big three: alt positive to battery positive, alt case to battery ground, battery ground to frame Gotta get a new dmm cause I fucked up the screen on accident. It was just a cheapie from Home Depot so not too big of a deal. Hopefully in the next couple weeks I'll have the singer 270 hairpin in, and soundqubed will have their pro audios back in stock for me to order. Then I just have to wait for them to fix and return the AQ 90x4 and I'll be golden for a little while. Next thing after that is a new box. Edit: also going to upgrade from the 250A fuses I have to 300 and run another positive to the back, and run more speaker wire.
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My manual doesn't say it either.
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Haha that's good. At least it was figured out.
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Turned the hpf...?
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When was the last time you put a new battery in? 9v batteries suck for shelf life. No matter what brand or technology or whatever the hell else they advertise on the "long lasting" batteries
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Gotta remember to start putting on the gloves I bought months ago when I fiberglass... Sticky fingers, everything sticks to me
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So, waiting to finish the pods until SoundQubed stocks their PA speakers again, they said it should only be a couple weeks yesterday. Shipping the AQ 90x4 for some love from SoundQubed. The gain pots seem loose, and when on the DD-1 I back it down from distorted and pull the tweaker and it lights back up until I give it a side to side wiggle. Edit: also, I know it's gotta be that being loose because on sometimes the vibration from the subs causes one channel to distort. Give the pot a little jiggle a fit clears up. 30ft of bubble wrap later.... All taped up and ready to go out tomorrow
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People that run active with supertweets, do you just leave that capacitor on there and say "thats where my mid/high crossover point will be"? or do you unsolder/take it off? never knew those were on there until i saw it in someones thread.
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Cool. Good info to know. Thank you.
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I had them on my aq/sq supertweets. One of the connections broke off, so I just crossed them over on the amp at 4.5k
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if your running active, that means your not running a passive cut off..
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Got new tires on the Tahoe, thinking about taking off the door moldings. One looks funny anyways from the clear tape or whatever peeling
