reedal

I could be wrong but i don't think that would be right considering it would depend o. The contact patch of the belt on the pulley so you would have to use pi and figure out the diffrence relative to the degrees of contact But that could be the over thinking talking i'm probably completely wrong.

I ran 14ga primary wire for power, ground, and remote turn on from my dash to my amps. Small gauge wire like that is easy to run that long and hide. Edit: clarification: from my OM-1 and VM-1 in the dash, back to my sub amp which is what they are connected to.

Best I have for you for now is to do a -10dB frequency sweep through your head unit at max clean with your crossovers set where you want them, measure the AC voltage straight from the RCAs, and then set your gain where the highest voltage you read would be. Not accurate, possible chance of clipping unless you set it really conservatively, but better than nothing. Unless you have an O-scope

He's on vacation.

That amp seems to be an issue with the DD-1. I'm going to link this thread to someone and hopefully we can receive some insight. Stay tuned.

What's the rest of your setup? You can't get distortion from the HU using tracks 1&2? Or you're just not getting it from the amp after finding the HU distortion point?

There's just no way to get the 8" on there and have a decent sized vent hole in the panel. I've got 4-5" holes under the mounting rings right now, which should be fine for the L6's I think, then it will cent into a little pocket in the sheet metal

Yeah, I'm going to try it out. If I don't like it, I'm only out $40 for the cost of the kick panels. Not the worst thing I've wasted $40 on.

And that's all I've got right now. To be continued next year

Oh, no, thank you though. I already have one that Scott hooked me up with back in December, it's got all of the ins and outs I need four the 4-channel and 2-channel amps. 4 in, 8 out.

If I were to get my hands on a helix pro, which has 10 output channels, that would be much easier, and give me better T/A capabilities. But the idea with what I have currently is everything off of the 80prs. Mid and high set to full pass, preouts to cockbox, highs split on one side to the AQ-90.4 which will power the full range and tweeters, mids on the other side of the cockbox split to the two AQ-200.2's, one for the L8's, one for the L6's, all crossovers except for the subs set on the amps using the CC-1, and try to find a middle ground using the 80prs T/A for the mids, combined with gain adjustments in order to dial it in. As for EQ, I leave it set to flat most times, but I should be able to make adjustments if needed without affecting multiple drivers due to the crossover points. That's the idea. If I'm able to get all speakers in, and I find that it's not working, I'll either feel like coming off of some money for the helix pro, or feel like pulling an amp and mid driver out of the picture completely. I'd rather try and fail than not try at all. I actually just glued the L6 mounting rings to the kick panels, tomorrow if I'm home early enough, I'll do a little fiberglass reinforcement on the bracing, wrap them in fleece, resin, glass, and set them aside until next year. I've got hope in what I'm planning..

Thank you. My wallet wishes I had gone a cheaper route, but I think it will be worth it once I can get things moving along. If I find that they can't keep up with my planned substage, then I'll pull it all, grab a processor, and make the wife's car an SQ build with a little extra bump when she wants it.

yeah, i know I just want to give it a shot, tune it up a bit, see how it sounds, and if i'm not digging it, drop it down a mid, and move on. i've got the next year almost to figure out what i'm going to do. I'll keep the offer of the Havocs for the L8's in the back of my mind in case you still have them when deployment ends

That's what i'm thinking. i'm just worried that since i want to do a 4-way front stage with the legatia's, that the L6's and L8's are going to have cancellation being crossed at 250hz. I'm planning subs and L8's crossed at 63, L8's and L6's at 250, L6's and L4's at 2k, and L4's and L1's at 8k, giving each driver two to three octaves to reproduce. But if I let the mid-woofers share the same airspace in the doors, will there be cancellation around the crossover point? Or should i put a divider betwen the woofers in the pod, and leave one sealed off, and the other vented into the door? I would presume the L8 playing the mid-bass would benefit more from venting into the door than the L6 playing the low side of the mid-range. I don't want to scratch the goal 5-way active system, but i'm definitely in over my head, and can't figure out which way i need to swim to reach what i want.

i don't think you realize how tempting that is.... i want them in the kicks so bad, but there just isnt room on the drivers side without relocating the hood release, and i don't know where i would relocate it to if i wanted to. The struggle is real. The L8's are the v1's by the way, not the newer v2's. In case that makes a difference.

Thanks, I appreciate it.

Thanks man. I'm saving up right now so I can get my electrical up to par with some xp3000's, and I'm going to try and find the captains seats for the second row that came factory with some of the Yukons. I'm planning on doing the batteries behind the seats, and the amps inbetween the seats, assuming I can snag the seats that is.

Installed PIAA xtreme white high and low beams. Pic is of lows, next plan for the headlights is to get new housings that aren't fogged/oxidized so the drivers side light will stop looking not as bright

Where did you tap into the stock head unit signal for your sub amp? Did you get the 40hz detect led lit up when setting the HU?

If there's a .75" difference between the pulley on the new alt versus the old alt, then what is 84.5 - .75?

OK so that would be the 8" then if I go by cone area 150inches at 1800W rms. 12" sub is like 113inches at 1500W rms. get it done. i'd do the three SA 8's on an SCV-2000 http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/sundown-audio-scv-2000d-2000w-mono-block-amplifier.html rated 2k @ 1ohm on 12v, so you'll have a little headroom. Do the proper amount of port area and size with the tuning you want, if that puts your net volume lower than what those 8's call for, that will help keep the subs from over excursion while you give them more than rated power, and the smaller size of the enclosure will help flatten out the frequency response a tad

we don't know. you'd have to build it and find out for yourself. perfect world, the most cone area in the closest to ideal box out of those two options would "flex the roof better".

If it starts with "https", then you have to take the "s" out and post it as only "http". But without seeing your link you want to post, it's just a guess that that is what's wrong...