WalledSonic

Lol. I have everything ripped out of my truck getting ready for the install but I already have the stuff for it. The wife's car already has bump so I figure someone else could benefit more from it.

Hey Wish, where's the build log?

In the living room for now lol. 

Check out Absinthe and thank me later. You are in the prime area on the Strip. You're within walking distance to a lot. Get a cab or bus ride to downtown Vegas at night. 

Just checked...Absinthe doesn't run on Monday or Tuesday..noooooo!!! In that case....there is bomb ass food all over Vegas. Go get a good meal and then go hit downtown. There is some new shops and stuff across from Caesar's at the Linq as well.

wow really fuck off then, lol

No expert but if you need it just for car audio this one's very cheap:

What's that one?

DSO Nano v1

I personally use a TPI 440 scope plus. Was 2 years out of warranty and they fixed it for free (new dial, battery, charging port (as well as repair since it wasnt working)). Then I would look into a DC/AC clamp with a true peak hold (rather than just hold where it locks what is on the screen). 440 plus if i remember right are like 350-400.

I like my Fluke meters, something about them being the leading brand in many different industries says a lot to me.

Really depends on what you plan to do with the meter on the options you need.

If your using it just for car audio and or wanting to clamp an amps output, then Id say SMD AMM-1, if your needing it for actual electrician field type work then Fluke.
That being said I dont remember the last time I even used my Fluke DMM or Fluke clamp.
Also keep in mind that if you get a DMM that has the additional add on clamp that plugs into it that you can only measure amperage or voltage one at a time (ie: you cant use the meter to measure current at the same time as measuring voltage. So you would need clamp meter and a multimeter if you where wanting to "clamp" and amp (which has been proving to be inaccurate results)).

Also I am a dealer for SMD products if you do decide to go that route.

Thanks Brian, I have an AMM-1, DD-1, IM-SG, and a Klein CL800. Just making convo, mostly.  

Thanks Antheny.  That fixed it.  Hopefully yall can get that bug fixed soon so I can still be incognito at work.  This theme is very bright haha.

Go ahead and switch it back to SMD Classic. It should be better now!

Thanks man!

Ive read about colapsed lines, but this car only has 38kmi on it. I guess we'll find out in couple hours

if the drums operate as they should with no other changes other than swapping to a caliper and bleeding... its definitely a fault in the caliper.  a bad piston seal would lead to a visible leak.  it may be a minute possibility, but it's possible that the flow port where the brake fluid enters on the caliper could be slightly over bored and overwhelming that piston with a higher pressure of fluid.  just a thought tho.  hope the new one works just fine!

New setup is working great. 4 wheel disc

beer and sanding

Beer and kitchen flooring,.. watch a lil of the game, only because of the 1100 i have on it spread out on several boards/prop and standard bets...... but, not much going on really

???????????

Just hoping my team can play as good as they did against Minnesota or better. My boss is pretty cool about it too, hes a sports fan and told us if anyones team makes it to the superbowl he’ll give them off. So im set, just figuring out if or how much i wanna bet on’em. 

Gasket adhesive by 3M

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00063X38M/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8#

I think you're gonna need it lol

At least you have a spare alt. now ?  (SOTM joke)

In all seriousness, I was hoping it would ship fast so I could drop it in, but theyre a bit backlogged.

I just asked Mechman to modify my order for a 1-wire alt so I can maintain voltage above 14V.  I found out (via testing) that the battery light is not tied to the OBD system, so I should still be able to get state inspection.

And when the 320A hairpin arrives in a couple weeks, it will be swapped in 

Found out the 2-pin-plug wires that connect to the alt regulator had been pulled out of their connector potting.  GM didnt put a stress cone on those leads. 

Running the alt self-exciting (13.5-13.8V) right now with no problems.  A simple goddamn 18ga wire ruined 2 regulators.  The intermittent connection was signaling the regs on and off, quickly frying them.  

enjoy the scenery, unless youve been there before.

Celsius, kilometers, and Canadian dollars!  WTF lol

lmao yup. 

I'll send them a request right now. EVIL8's FTW

YES lets get loud

Definitely stick with the pro version. As a note, I wouldn't suggest using the SPL graph to try and see what the SPL of the enclosure will be like in your car or room. It will more than likely be very off. Use it more to get a feeling of what the response will be. Can also use the transfer magnitude graph for that. If modeling a ported box, I would suggest looking at the rear port air velocity. In general I would suggest reading their help page on how to properly/accurately enter in custom driver parameters. It can be a bit temperamental in that sense. 

Shit meant 7 Hz, not dB. Anyway, thanks for the reply man. 

I'll be there saturday.

You read that whole thing?!, and understanded it?!...damm. Well done. Lookn forward to going active. Right now I got two tweets on deck power and sub on + - 900w lol

fudge.......

Blowing my mind up! Thanks for that...awsom 

SCIENCE!

Yep loose RCAs near the bass knob were popping the amp with spike voltage and sending it to protect. I’d like to thank my DMM for helping me diagnose that so quickly haha