Leaderboard

Cool comparison pictures AND introducing the TEAM Sundown motor that is in development. It will be our first 4" coil motor. Before you ask... ETA and price not yet available. As usual both will be announced when they ARE available. * From Left to Right : TEAM Sundown, NS v.3, NS v.2, Z v.4, NS v.1, Z v.3, Z v.2, and finally the X Motor

Hmm, I feel like I recognize that basket......

facking showoff HAHAHA you think this showing off wait to you see the new video

You copied the standard, you have not set any

No problem. Sorry for the delay in response. Been out on trips and busy as hell getting orders ready for those of you building for finals. You can stay in the mid 12s and be fine. Its when you start to get into the 11s that your butt should start to pucker!

Call me and let me know who that was and I promise you will get the deal of a life time!!! 888.497.7693 x1211 And just for the record. We introduced the D6500 3 years ago. In this time we have received 4 d6500 that had a manufactures defect. Overall our return on defects is less than .05% on batteries. This is why we can offer warranties that other companies can't.

And Nathan delivered as promised!!

Sexy as hell Steve!

facking showoff

good shit, was just a suggestion..

You can run your 10k's off of this no problem LoL

FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu yeah.... LOVE mine.... stoked to get the 4th in (even though that means a complete redo of the bat bank station, wiring, and amp rack. Meh.. WORTH IT. i would get another charger as well.. those are some big bitchez

Nope and its daddy Mr. D7500 is the MF man!

what about me playing in the 10's Everyone knows you aint right anyway, so keep on keeping on..............

what about me playing in the 10's

You could run 100 12V batteries and they are not going to keep you up in the mid to high 13V range on a system that is pulling more than your alternator can handle. 12V batteries are only going to be able to keep you at 12.9V once a load is placed on them. Anything over 12.9V is alternator power. So, if you have a 10K watt systems that is pulling around 1,000amps of power you would need around 1,050 amps of alternator power to stay in the 13V range. If you do not have this alternator power and your seeing voltage over 13V on a load with a 10K system, then you are not pulling anywhere close to the rated power.

Couple leds behind that grill would really pop off that polished finish. Might be a little busy though.

Maybe Nathan will see this topic.

Get a hold of XS power and let them know your experience...I know for DAMN sure if I owned a company that used dealers like XS does, I would be really upset if one of my dealers represented my company that way.

Mine shipped fast as well. Very unprofessional for that guy to talk about a product he's dealing for like that.

x2 also, I am clear on the 200w rms per pair, but it is confusing that 200w rms is labeled on each speaker. just saying

Many of the new testers will fail a unit if the voltage is outside OEM spec, meaning that if your aftermarket regulator charges at 15.2v cold and settles to 14.8v hot that it may show a regualtor failure if the spec allows for a max of 14.6v. Most of the aftermarket test equipment can only pull about 200a from their load bank or their meter won't read high enough to show true output. While you may not see the full output on a test bench that does not have the full load capability. Remember that the amperage output will not reduce unless there is a failed part such as a diode or worn brushes. I'm keeping this very general, this is more complicated than I am explaining it here, but the general information is really what will serve you best in testing your unit. There are exceptions to this, but if you have your system connected in your vehicle you only need a couple tools to test your alternator charging output yourself. The DC amp clamp isn't cheap, so you might want to borrow one, but any audio enthusiast should have a quality voltmeter. Using your system in place of a load bank may not max out your alternator output, but you will be able to see the output that it is producing, and using the voltmeter you can monitor voltage to determine if there is in fact an alternator problem. We have a 400a load bank in our shop that we use on our test bench and a 400a amp clamp to read accurate amperage output. If anyone needs a unit tested we can do this for you. You pay the shipping and I will test the output of your high output alternator if you can't get it done locally.