audiofanaticz

Also the tachometer wire is a black wire, located at either ignitor, The ignitor is located on the passenger side behind headlight and air flow meter in a black plastic box. set module to the four(4) cylinder setting since each ignitor runs 4 cylinders. The wire on the viper 5902 brain would be in the H2 harness ( which has 18 pins/wires). The tachometer wire is the Violet/White wire in Pin number 9. Here are the diagrams. But I strongly suggust you leave it be so your warranty is not voided.

any notes you took are really not helpful except knowing that pink wire is attached to orange wire, unless you physically went thru and tested every wire the installers tapped into to know what they are, and then know which each wire on the brain is.. As for the shop being not being professional, I cant really comment on it, but like I said there is a option to change the cranking time, and its a quick simple fix. I just logged onto direct techs and pulled up your usermanual and the install guide and didnt see any options you can try in the owners manual. I also wouldnt go messing with it yourself, its warrantied so I would have them mess with it, not that they go and say you went and tinkered with it, and blame the reason its not starting on you even tho its not just to get out of warranting their work and make you pay. If anything you could always check for other directed dealers in your area. edit: I dont for see it being the tack wire since it starts fine when the car is warmer. It just takes older vehicles more then 2-3 cranks sometimes in the cold, and this would make sense.

If i was you bigmescan, id try and wait til march 20th or so when the new SA-8v2s will be available, they are a major upgrade to a great woofer already, and they are on presale now, so the pricing will be cheaper for them now, then once are in stock @ sundown. link to presale thread http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/128398-sundown-sa-8-v2-pre-order/ SA-8 v.2 Regular Price - $185 PRE-ORDER PRICE - $135 @ 1 - 3 pcs PRE-ORDER PRICE - $125 @ 4+ pcs Shipped in Continental 48 states

yes, you can program it to crank longer. Its nothing wrong with the install or installers. I cant remember but I think that is an option that needs to be changed via the bitwriter tool, which means your installers would have to change it. Its a matter of plugging a small data cable into your alarm/remote start brain and going thru the menu. If they are any sort of a Directed dealer (Python, Viper, Clifford, Avital, and many more) they should have this tool, if they dont Id find a more legit shop to do business with. Also if your car has such a hard time starting when its cold, Id really look into a tune-up. Plugs, wires, coilpack (if it has a coil) otherwise dist cap and rotor, Id also think it be smart to do some sort of fuel injection cleaner thru it.

I would never have vertical sync forced on... thats lols. Your just asking for horrible framerate in games. No matter how good your set up is... FORCE OFF is ftw.

oh hells yea!!! nice score!!

I always say over power! You can tune the amp down if need be, but you can never tune the amp to put out more clean power.

The batcap 4000 is a fully fledged AGM battery: BatCap Model 4000 Less than 800 cubic inches Dimensions: H 8 5/8" X W 6 3/4" X L 13" Weight: 75.5 lbs. MSRP $499.00 Two years in the making, the Xstatic Corporation has tried to achieve the energy equivalent of TWO Model 2000s in ONE case! Its here now in the Model 4000, a 12volt, 100ah battery with an internal resistance of 2 m ohm and over 2,000 amps of useable energy.

So bobby wants gun shorts..... I found him the perfect pair!!! Boy shorts with cute pink guns!!

As for the price, its alright, nothing to brag about! I dont know how many sets of HID's I have ordered from DDMTuning for my vehicles and numerous others and never had any problems that are the HID's fault. http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/Apexcone-Raptor-HID-Kit You can get the simular kit at ddm for $30. Tho you will have to add the brackets to it for $4 You also have the option for 55watt ballasts for even bright lighting for $10 and a relay wiring harness $15(not always needed but I install them on every set and brand I install just to eliminate the "what if" possibility). So your looking at around $59, plus $13ish shipping = $72. But you are gaining the relay harness which is not included in the linked set, nor like I said not always needed but strongly suggest! Your also getting a LIFETIME WARRANTY!!! Which the place you linked seems to have none (at least that I noticed)... You also have a wide selection of bulb color and bulb type. The only downfalls of ddmtuning is shipping may take up to 2 weeks sometimes since some kits are dropped shipped from china but lets get real here, thats where all are made, hell I even stopped using Futurevision due to being idenical kits, at a heavier markup. ddm also dont give you a fancy box that will end up in your trash either. Sometimes the box may look a little beatup when the package arrives, but after ordering multiple times (over 25 kits) I had never had a single bad bulb, ballast, or anything missing in my orders. As for you PS, no HIDs should not dim. they only require more power then normal halogens during the time the ballasts turn on for the first 4-7seconds (some vehicles stock wiring cant handle the exceeded amperage which is why I always use relay harness's) but once the ballasts are warmed up after the 7or so seconds, they draw less power. The lights will not dim, since most brands I have used are in a voltage range of 9volts - 16volts, as long as voltage is in that range they will work as they should, any less then 9volts may not ignite the ballasts, any more may kill the ballasts. But again DDM = LIFETIME warranty.

I like my Camel wides (once in a while tho I will get my menthol fix from a buddy that smokes Newport 100s, or Camel Crush).

Sorry, no vs threads allowed. Its in the rules which can be found here -> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/index.php?app=forums&module=extras&section=boardrules Both companies offer great products, you should spend your money with whatever company is more appealing to you. A lot of people like DC Audio here. He is MIA, so i'll lock this one for him. haha

Home made jigs are awesome if your just cutting a few bigger circles. However when you need to go and cut a lot of different size circles, your gonna hate life having to measure and drill many new holes for your needs.

It was either scotty or nathan that has said the stinger batteries are the next best battery compared to a XS Power, not sure if they mean in general, or for just for a couple batteries.

Length - 10.24 in Height – 7.20 in Width – 6.75 in

I remember them stating in a video that the internal resistance of a D3100 is lower then the competitors group 31. but that is about it. Lol

Kinda crazy that shows up, I know when I checked some stuff in my area, the google earth was showing things from 4+ years ago. Maybe they changed it since and is more updated for google earth. Pretty damn cool either way! Sure gimmie the isF keys once the bottle of nitrous is in there. I will try my best! lol

I just use wood glue on the joining pieces of wood, I havent used any sort of silicon in many many many years. Occasionally I will resin the inside of the box, but its not always a must.

*whistles* http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/127560-how-to-be-louder-then-steve-meade/

wood is GARBAGE Its everyday plywood with a lot of voids (knots) that are not filled with a top and bottom veneer of birch sandwiching the plywood. Just because you dont see any voids on the exterior edges of the wood also does not mean that the sheet of wood is void free because once you cut into it there could be a lot of voids that are unseen until the cut, or you may get lucky and miss the voids and like I said if your lucky enough to do so, still dont mean its a good void free piece of wood. Its lighter then mdf, but at the cost of it being lighter weight your sacrificing it not being anything near as dense or strong as mdf. To put it simple, unless your using legit baltic birch, or anything with a full core (not plywood) its not worth using IMO. You can also find Birch with a MDF core at Menards and then the top and bottom layer or veneer of the wood is birch, its a bit better, but unless your going for "looks" your still better off with mdf due to the price comparison, because its still pretty heavy wood. Ive used a lot of quality birch before, and just bought this crappy "classic" birch made by Tigarply and I done a lot of cussing to say the least..... The good baltic birch stocked at most Menards, but is now special order at my local store this cheap wood just really pisses me off! lol @ 2:18 you can see the quality of this cheap wood..... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ga2yvdei1dw

Said it on the other thread, but "team filthy bangers" is what Im feeling bro

amp repair is a hassle. best off not messing with it and send it out, before something gets messed up more and it costs more to repair. You really need to test a lot of resistors, mosfets, and know what they should read when they are good. Just because something dont look blown dont mean it is, it could be something your not able to physically see with the mosfet hold downs bars screwed on, or something like a gate resistor, but normally that would cause the amp to go into protect. I would assume its something with the drive board. Id assume you already checked them fuses on the inside, lol Im pretty sure my buddy always used amp medics for all his memphis amps. http://www.ampmedics.net/