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getting close to having the wall done and wired up on 5 of the small amps( swaping to 5x 2500w rms amps in the near future , still need to seal it to the b pillars and other work but i got plenty of time before the next comp

progress is slow but i got the port cut and in today for testing and 3 out of the 5 sub amps installed its enough for some low power testing /checking making sure the enclosure doesnt have anything loose etc hopefully ill have enough time this weekend to get all 5 wired up and playing

Sorry I've been MIA. As for the 74AH pro I'm not sure you should get it. I'm second guessing my purchase already and I cant send it back. I'm still going to try and use it but i wish I would have done more research. Apparently these cells have a really narrow voltage range. It might work for me but I'm still a ways off from testing them out. ----------------UPDATE 2/25/24--------- I decided to revamp my system entirely. I sold everything from my old car except 2 SA x-8's, my SIA2500.1d, and my wiring. I got rid of my Infinity Kappa 3-ways and purchased Infinity Kappa Perfect 3-ways. The new setup is as follows Helix M Four DSP running my tweets and Midrange 2 Sound Digital 800.4's running my midbass, center channel, and rear speakers SIA2500.1d running 2 SA X-8v.4's - 2ohm's @ 2000watts - Also contemplating building a T-line enclosure for these Also I decided to do custom a-pillars. So on with that! These are my Infinity Kappa 300m midranges all taped up and ready to be trimmed. The two things i dislike about these are that the mounting tabs add an inch of width and they don't come with grills. Gonna have to fix that. Left one trimmed, on the right you can see the problem. These are some funky a pillar pods I found on amazon. I'll still need to do some fiberglassing and trimming once my second set of a-pillars come in. Not gonna modify the originals. Thank you skar audio for the sacrificial grill Fit's but is not done. This is a tinner's hammer hammer. Time to shape some metal Not perfect but you can see what I'm going for. A can of zyn fit's nicely to help with the shaping Also had some steel round mesh from another project So I decided to try that as well Side - by - side of the two grill options Now for the tweeters. The flush mounts we too big so originally I was going to use these. But it looks hideous and bug-eyed. So I trimmed one of the flush-mounts to fit. And ditched the black grill. The steel looks better imo, especially when matching the tweeter. There's still a lot I need to do to these. Currently the grill is sitting on the midrange surround so I need to fix that, and the pods still need to be fiber glassed to the a-pillars and covered with some kid of material. But that is for another day.

closer , waiting ont he first 2 baffle layers to dry and then i can glue this one to those and install it for real

getting the inner shell done tonight

Who remembers when I use to post my "REALTIME" videos? Well they are coming back

getting older sure does suck

Joe X design is a good ported box. Corner 45s don't do much for a subwoofer box besides brace it and eat up internal volume. If you wanted a similar design with a bit more internal volume then I do have one free on youtube. Feel free to do basically whatever with it. You could also try to design a mass loaded transmission line with offset driver/stub. It's basically a lot like a ported box but attempts to cancel resonance in the enclosure to give more bandwidth.

I would definitely look into seat lift kits to fit a box of proper size for those subs, make that enclosure with 3/4" birch wood, dual layer for the baffle, proper bracing inside, specs are 4 cubic feet net 64 square inches of port area tuned to 32Hz, I believe the sub cutouts need to be 7.34". Depending on how much space you find to work with I could fine tune that spec to increase output and low end extension as possible.

That box is designed for SA-8s as a result the X subs are going to find themselves in a too small box with low port area and tuned too high, surely above the 36Hz specified as driver displacement for X subs is larger, maybe it will get to 38Hz or more and could experience some port noise. Used to a large box tuned very low you will definitely notice a loss in bottom octave bass. Regarding to your question, you can always strengthen the box but if it is made of cheap thin 5/8" wood then it is not impossible. Lastly the pre cut sub holes cannot fit X subs, you will have to work on the holes. Overall that box seem expensive and not adequate for the subs. I would lift up the seats and do a proper custom enclosure for those subs and even then you probably have better bottom octave bass right now than you will ever get with some 8s.

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Made some upgrades to the ebike https://i.imgur.com/ZoNrhEy.mp4

Some 56 square inches of total port area, two ports half that number for each port.

When you have more than one sub you pick a spot in which both subs will see the same load so not B.

The new swr 12d4 will work on smaller boxes than previous versions, to determine the volume to use enter both the old and new models in winISD and change the volume of the new version to approximately match the curve the 2.1 cubes plot of the old one you have and use the same port area you had in your old box. Of course you need to check the excursion plot at the power you intend to use your new subs to be within Xmax, now you can build to the specs you just obtained.

Haven't been here in a minute. I hope everyone is doing well and having a great start to the new year!

Swapped it without losing a single piece of resolution, thank you so much!!!

Bumping up this oldie but goodie here. So for the past 2 years or so I've been using this same T-Line box with this same now 14 year old Subwoofer from the now defunked company in my home theater build. I'm getting ready to build a second one as I have a still never used eD 13kv.4 subwoofer that I'm gonna use to have a dual 12 subwoofer setup in my theater room. If anyone is interested in seeing said theater room I have linked it over from my Reddit page here: Reddit Theater Page

You need your new equipment professionally installed, that includes new wiring, battery, setting your gains correctly and such. Talking over the internet looks like is not going to be helpful in your case. You need a person who is properly trained and has the tools to help you.

I just built my last rig not to long ago and I am already at it again. The reason I chose the parts for the last build was due to not having a mainboard that could support my new 5gig Fiber internet. There wasn't many boards in the latest gen at the time that had what I needed. You can see that build here **** This link below is the OLD 11th Gen build that is now my VR rig, you can see the NEW 14th gen if you keep scrolling**** While that build worked GREAT, I also have another issue. I have a Valve Index VR setup. My main PC runs 3 monitors and every time I want to use VR I have to unplug display ports and restart the PC. When I am done I have to plug it all back in and restart the PC again. And then after that I have to reset my monitor configuration because it flips out when I start making changes like that. Easy to put back, but a pain none the less. I just want to pick the headset up and use it without all that drama. So I decided I wanted a PC dedicated JUST for my VR. My first choice was a gaming laptop. I have one I use all the time that has an RTX 2070 in it. I plugged it in and it works pretty good (for VR). The only problem is for fast games like VR racing, it is pretty weak. Not anywhere near the quality of my PC. So I decided to build another gaming rig instead that I can dedicate to that. While trying to figure out what I was going to use for the build, I decided that my "old" rig from March (2023) with the 11th gen could be the perfect tower instead and I can build a NEW NEW for my main rig instead. I also have a spare RTX 3090 not being used that I spent $2500 on during covid lockdown. So my VR PC will be my "old" PC with a 3090 in it and I will take my 4090 and put it in the new rig since it is still the latest card. A little confusing but it might make sense by the time I am done with both of them. New build: CORSAIR iCUE 7000X RGB Full-Tower ATX MSI Meg Z790 Godlike Max Motherboard EVGA Supernova 1600 P+, 80+ Platinum 1600W PS Intel Core i9 14900k Corsair H150i Elite Capellix Liquid Cpu cooler 128G Corsair Vengeance DDR5 Asus ROG Strix RTX 4090 OC Edition GPU Samsung 990 Pro m.2 2TB (main) Samsung 990 Pro m.2 2TB Samsung 990 Pro m.2 2TB (3) Alienware 38" 3840x1600 @ 144hz 1ms (in Surround mode @ 11520x1600) I g

Done!

What is the vehicle?

dueling gaming pc’s 😁 I networked the drives so I can use the “older” pc as a storage server also. Win! The one on the left is the previous PC but with an RTX 3090 in it. The 4090 was migrated over to the new tower.

This case blows for air flow, ... add in temps being 3 digits for 6 weeks straight here, and, why not get a pump, cpu and gpu block,.. chuck a rad or 2 in there, and shove some water through things. Heat killer cpu block, EK gpu block, 360mm rad, 280mm rad, BEquiet silent wing pro fans, aquasuite quadro controller/software ( i dig this thing) , EK d5 pump,res, fittings,tubing. Just a simple gaming rig, nothing serious. HyteY60 case/7800x3d/7900xtx/DDR5-6400 CL30/Asus Strix x670e-e/Seasonic 1000 prime titanium Samsung g7 32" 240hz/Samsung g7 27" 240hz/ROG Azoth keys First go with a loop,... and, I think ill add a loop to my other rig. I have a flow sensor, and some other ish, ready to go in, when I get bored enough to stick it all in. Runs like a top.

Alright now for the fun stuff. For subs I'm going with 2 Sundown audio x-8v.4's. Why? because 8's are Rad, and I'm trying to keep my care as usable as possible. But also because it's different. The original plan was 3 but I was having difficulty making a box for three that would work within my size constraints and the SA 2500.1 D would struggle to run 3. Maybe down the line I'll go for broke and run 4 off of a beefy 4k for shits and giggles, but most likely I'll sell off the extra 8. The Box that the subs are sitting on is a CT Sounds dual 8 enclosure with 3/4 MDF, a kerf port tuned to 39hz, and abou .81cu ft per woofer. It's on the smaller side but it was cheap and I figured it would be good to compare against a future box with a full 1cu ft per woofer and 32hz tuning. But first, I needed to fix a few things. These Cup terminals. Known for being leaky, So lets fix that. This is some Second Skin Butyl Rope that I had leftover from my last build. This stuff rocks. It's especially good at silencing license plates. This worked for me before with a sealed enclosure, just gotta really work it into the cracks. Next I put some ferrules on the wires because ferrules are awesome And Last I used a little Tessa tape (Fabric Tape) just to make sure the wires don't rattle against the box. And that's pretty much where I have to stop, at least until I gut my other car, and start building an amp/battery Rack.

I haven't looked into their sub parameters to see if they are good. I can only suggest to get someone to design an enclosure for you (or go with a program that can give you data back on how the box will theoretically perform). I have a tough time when people go with general port areas and ratios. Just because it plays doesn't mean it's right or optimal.

Looks solid! ------------------- I think you're on the right track using tinned OFC for exterior wire, but saving a few bucks using raw OFC for interior. Nothing wrong there. Nice to see another hydraulic crimper user. Only thing I'd add is to mind the lugs you use. Closed ended, tinned copper lugs are the way to go. Solder and crimp lugs are quite different! For heat shrink on exterior wiring: Make sure ya grab adhesive lined. Or, if that's not in the cards for one reason or another, you can get away by putting a thin layer of high temp hot glue over the area, then putting the heat shrink over that and warming until the glue melts and oozes out. Not as cheesy as it sounds, that's all the weather-sealed heat shrink is - just pre-applied for ease of use. I'd also get some wiring loom to add some protection to the cable. Bumps and abrasion can take their toll over the years. Get the woven variety - less apt to trap and hold moisture than the plastic corrugated stuff. ------------------- Other notes: - Don't forget the grommet when passing wires into the vehicle. Butyl putty is awesome for sealing stuff up and excluding salt/moisture long-term. It doesn't cure - stays soft like chewing gum. - Can also consider a pass-thru bulkhead if that's up your alley - Alternator wise, mechman, singer are the favorites. I've used DC power and been happy but that was many years ago. Not sure where they stand now

You can also setup your gains low making sure power delivered is within drivers specs. No one is to say if that distorted signal will make any difference, It's all about being prepared to prevent a bad outcome. Much luck and if you have any other questions let us know.

For the port size and length you should model the enclosure in a program like winisd that will show you the port air velocity and excursion so you can see how different sizes of port will effect how it all performs. You don't need anything to direct the airflow to the ports except for a flared end piece. Keep the end of the port away from the back wall by at least the diameter of the port. I.E. a 4 inch diameter port should have at least 4 inches clearance at the end of the port.

First time posting here! Just wanted to say hello to everyone! Most of all, I want to give a shoutout to Steve Meade & his crew! They are a great group of people!

The subsonic (high pass) is generally 4th order not 2nd order filter in most amps so it will need to be set higher to better control excursion, also, WinISD doesn't account for cabin gain so your frequency response just show how the box will play outdoors. But you can still compare your plot with a 4.75 net box tuned to 29Hz (the prefab) to see how much are you expected to gain, that actually is useful information you might be interested in.

Sure you can do that for some moderate improvement, larger improvements involve greater cone area like for example doing 2 15s, if doing a larger than recommended box and tuning higher requires you setting up your subsonic filter higher to prevent sub bottoming out.

got the excess cut fromt he corners and had to call it a night ran out of daylight , i have 2 panels to install in the top of the box tommorow morning and then i can work on fiberglassing and sealing the inside before i put the outser layers on

Usually the negative speaker wire output is fine to use, however on some amps if it don't work then the negative battery terminal will work as well. Most amps the negative speaker terminal and the negative battery terminal are tied together, but thats not always the case and thats really the only time you need to use the negative terminal or vice versa.

i have a Alpine 9887 and a scope, the RCA outs dont clip at full volume. the internal amp clips at volume 21 out of 35

Some but not all headunits will not distort at max volume when only using rca preouts. Now if you're using the internal amp of the headunit that will usually distort long before the rca preouts will so you will want to use that as your max volume setting.

Not sure the chambers are of different sizes but even if they were with sealed there is no much difference in performance for normal to larger than normal internal volumes, say 1 cubic feet and 1.2 cubic feet will sound largely the same. If those subs are the lanzar st max12s those may play better in ported box rather than sealed. To answer your question it's better to cut a circle in the dividers rather than take them out to preserve the box strength.

Not sure if I am OG but life has been rough. Glad to be glancing around once again though.

time to put the box in…although it may come back out for more @Second Skinsound deadener soon!

No, I didn't miss word it. I was just wrong. Thank you for the clarification. I thought it measured both. I must admit, I only skimmed through the manual lol.

I'm still alive...... and still an asshole!