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Everything posted by ShadeTreeMechanic
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DC 1.2K amp question
ShadeTreeMechanic replied to Kerry.davis's topic in DC Sound Lab - Big Bass on ANOTHER LEVEL!
The output should be whatever you put on the input. They are directly connected inside like a Y splitter. -
Try unplugging the rcas from the amp and see if it still does it. With the gain set high on the amp, it might be possible for the rcas to pick up an induced voltage from wires running next to it like the factory wiring or something. When you say static noise is it like an air sound mostly from the tweeters? This is caused by the gain being set too high. Is there anyone in your area with a DD-1? it might be worth buying one. The eq that I run has a pre amp in it so I can turn my gains way down low to get rid of this noise. Maybe the LC7 has an adjustable output, I don't know.
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Cool amp, thanks for doing a dyno video. What size are the terminal blocks? I just watched the video again. 4AWG
- 4 replies
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- skar audio
- amp dyno
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(and 1 more)
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Battery issue
ShadeTreeMechanic replied to severancej's topic in XS Power Batteries / Chargers! (and other stuff too)
Definitely check your charging voltage to make sure your alternator didn't run away on the output. -
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Spring Sale
ShadeTreeMechanic replied to Second Skin's topic in Second Skin Sound Deadening and Automotive Insulation!
Sitting all winter reminds me that I have two door kits sitting in the garage since last fall. lol I still need some for the roof. Thanks for the sale! -
Double check that the subsonic isn't set near the low pass. The numbers on the amp are not always accurate and if you set it between the numbers then it is a guess as to what it is really set at. I would turn the low pass up and the subsonic down to test. You can download test tones and play them to adjust the low pass and subsonic accurately.
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In Montréal on business for a couple of weeks. Picked up a six pack of Rickards Red. One of my favorites. Edit: Sorry for the crappy picture.
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What to do
ShadeTreeMechanic replied to broncoupe's topic in SMD Crossover Callibrator (CC-1) Topics
Now I'm going to read page 7. -
What to do
ShadeTreeMechanic replied to broncoupe's topic in SMD Crossover Callibrator (CC-1) Topics
Does the cc1 measure amplifier output? Edit: my bad I just watched the video. I never knew that the cc1 had another function. So you would use the cc1 to turn the gain down on the amp that is turned up. Also when you find the max clean output from the head unit then leave it there as a reference point for the gain settings for all the amps. Maybe I misunderstood but it sounded like you were adjusting the head unit volume when you were adjusting the amp gains. -
What to do
ShadeTreeMechanic replied to broncoupe's topic in SMD Crossover Callibrator (CC-1) Topics
I think overlap is something different. Gain matching is matching the amplifiers outputs so they play at the same level with a volt meter. -
What to do
ShadeTreeMechanic replied to broncoupe's topic in SMD Crossover Callibrator (CC-1) Topics
Yes 06 and Skulls are correct. Since there are separate amps for the right and left channel they need to be gain matched. After you set the gain with the dd1 on your amps, measure the output voltage from each amp. Then turn the higher of the two down to the level of the lower one so they have the same voltage. Don't turn the low one up because that will cause it to clip. Please post some pictures, I would like to see this.? -
What track when over powering subs?
ShadeTreeMechanic replied to tbeats's topic in SMD Distortion Detector (DD-1) Topics
Generally 1/2 octave below tuning would be the set point for your subsonic. An octave is a doubling or halving of frequency. One octave below 40hz would be 20hz. One half of that would be 10hz below so 30hz would be correct. If all things were normal. Overpowering might require a higher set point. The subsonic filter slope probably has a 24db per octave slope or roll off. This will mean that the signal will be 24db lower at one octave below set point. The set point is where it starts to roll off so it will still pass almost the whole signal at set point. I would start with it set to 40hz and then slowly turn it down until the subs make a different sound or the sound changes or you hear any kind of unnatural sound. Sometimes the cone when it unloads will make an additional sound that is several octaves higher than the original bass note.
