ChevyBoy95

not trying to be a nay sayer, but that XL was not seeing 5500rms. and what you did in 1 box doesnt translate into a completely different box since tuning, airflow/cooling, etc. will all change.

Agreed. And not because of my bias. me either, being that i have used every 3in coil DC woofer in the m1 line round wire and flatwire. the flatwound 8 layer coils (3in) start to get hot quick at 3500rms, and i mean HOT if you really dont pay attention. as long as he has the suspension under control (i think 6 spiders will do), all he needs to really worry about is thermal capacity, and 7k is going to push it. OP, dont be surprised if you have a BBQ mid song at some point.

those 3in coils dont like more than about 3k thermally, i see issues in your future....

with the dc 1.2k, just build the box to spec, you will be fine. but if you want you can move up to 3.5 cubes like you said. either way, 200 watts isnt going to make a difference.

what are you doing that is making the spiders rip from the spiders?

here is what you most likely will need. 1. ~220-270a alternator 2. 3 XS D3100s and a stock location AGM (or UPS batteries for a budget option) 3. 2 or 3 Runs of OFC 1/0 Wire 4. Money for wood, screws, wood glue, dowels, all thread, yada yada yada (bunch of little shit that ADDS UP QUICK!) 5. Volt meter of some kind to watch the amplifiers voltages 6. Finishing materials like paint, carpet, spray glue, body filler, fiberglass, etc. 3 18s on 6k isnt a first system kind of system. your going from nothing to the big leagues. edit a rundown of average cost will be about : 1300-1800 bucks depending on how quality or not you go (cost range mainly dependent on battery type and alternator),none of this including subs (which you have) or amps (which you have)

with a stock alt, probably not, without a good battery bank, probably not, without upping your budget, probably not. got a lot going against you right know. What is the point of buying top of the line woofers and not treating amps, batteries, alt, etc the same? doesnt make any sense.

Depends on a lot, depending on box size and tuning will determine if you can only feed it 1k or 3k. Thermally the coil is good to about 3k, mechanically is mostly determined again by box volume. You should have no issues with 2k-2.5k if in recommended spec box

i meant the gt.

lol

i would suggest upgrading subs. dont make a 1k rms sub try to sound like it is a 2k rms sub. the coil thermally can take it, along with the suspension, but i would personally go with a level 5 and get the motor force along with the soft parts to match. i dont think you will see a huge difference with the 5 upgrades in the 4 motor, noticeable, but you will just want more probably.

what the fucking fuck? at one angle it is white, at another it is gray....

205db or bust.

playing too low, might be unloading on making some mechanical noise from loss of cone control. And if it is the last note of put on in decafs, it is ~24hz. could be a combination of many things like port area, tuning, filters on the amp, etc. (i think it is mainly port though). i can play 24 full tilt all day long but my port is like 11 per cube. (i have xl's as well). and i think i have heard what you are hearing but i get it in the 15-20hz range. edit: for those who dont know, F3 is not the box tuning. and bottoming out is FUCKING LOUD so you would know.

the extra draw will be a big jump, and the power increase will be small.

yes, usually brand new subs smell a bit when played, and a good amount on low notes, but there is a distinct difference between that smell and hot ass coil so you are ok. If you get a chance, just smell near the spider landing/pole vent and you can probably smell the same smell. just a fresh woofa smell

It is a 4, mag Isn't big enough to be a 5 and the xl doesn't have a pole vent, only the 6 small holes in the bottom plate.

~10in diameter magnet 3 1in slugs

im in houston but not up for a 1hr.45min drive, plus i yanked everything out today to fix some stuff.

just wait a couple weeks for teh lowzzzz

I'm gonna have 1 9k on 2 lvl 6 18s daily. How you figure?? he bought a level 6 12 being told it might have issues, then fucked it up.

Dust cap is legit.

What are the OD of the caps?

You solder the lead to the direct lead wire at the same location you would have the push terminals and zip tie the wires in place so they don't move at all at the contact point(of the tinsel lead)

Should have just used a grinder to get the glue off. That or a chisel.