Leaderboard

Chicken called me up and said he wanted to get the Caddy rollin' again. About a year ago, he moved it to his grandpa's house to do some paving or something on his driveway...and out of sight, out of mind, it sat long enough to kill all the batteries, which made it hard to lift, which made it hard to move. With the Batteries @ 1/2 a volt. Yes, i said .5, it was just dead in the water. So to keep the story rolling, About a few months ago, we were going to do this but he got sidetracked and i ended up building him a sick ass computer instead. (link here http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/156477-another-bitchslapping-gaming-pc-build-smd-style-video-page-13/ ) Now, he is ready to get back on this and make it good again. So they dropped a basic battery from the autoparts store in, just to get it started. The back batts are so low, it has to be KILLING those alternators. It's ok, they are coming out and Mechman's are going in. For those that don't know - if you want to see the build pics, and you have about 5 hours to spare, there are about 3 million of them in this link. Exaggerating of course but its a lot of pictures... http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/10216-2002-caddy-8-fi-btl-18s-2-rockford-t15k-candy-paint-page-15/ People can talk all the shit they want about me but you can never say i am not a hard worker. Click that link and see for yourself. Compare what "they" did, to what i did...you thought the 72 was bad. This was almost as bad. Barely got enough air in the bags to lift it up and roll it on to the flatbed...SMD HQ bound! Its back! Man, the pics cannot describe this paint job. It is so delicious. In case you didn't notice, i built my systems to LAST. ALL this shit still works. It just needs batteries (not my fault) and some work done to the air ride.... needs some new sway bars too. Everything looks pristine still and all fired right up. BUT, the system is sufferin' needen' some Bufferin' with them dead ass batteries in back. Hey look, a dead Stinger Volt meter! There is a dead one in the back, that came back to life again hahah..... Blue screen of death, typical windows XP - hey my choices were slim back then. Windows Vista just came out and that shit SUCKED too. This was way before Ipads were the rage, they weren't even out yet.

The battery works when the car is connected to the battery, electrons are allowed to flow. 3 things in bat. There are 2 connectors that go out of the battery. These are called the cathode and anode. There is also a solution that the cathode and anode sit in (Battery Acid). When used a chemical reaction occurs between the acid and the anode (positive terminal) which releases electrons that flow through the circuit. These reenter the battery through the cathode (negative terminal) where another chemical reaction is happening between the cathode and solution. The electrons are incorporated in the products of this reaction. in car batts the cathode is lead dioxide (PbO2), the anode is a sponge of lead (Pb), and the solution is sulfuric acid (H2SO4). When the battery is being used, the 2 connections react to form lead sulfate (PbSO4) by reacting with the sulfuric acid. When a battery dies, it is because one or more of the chemical reactants is more or less used up or is lost somehow due to leaks or other loss. if its not connected, there is no way for electrons to be made to keep battery alive. also there can be sulphation that can occur on the plates which slows or stops the reaction. yes if the battery was made so poorly with bad material, the plates may warp or touch due to shock? which would short the battery i believe. but usually there are 6 seperate cells so chances of that happening arent great, i would think yep 6 2v cells and for those who dont know what sulfation is, when batteries are in use, small sulfate crystals form (as part of its reaction), normally this isn't a big deal, but during charge deprivation (long time with low voltage), the lead sulfate converts to a stable crystalline (solid) that deposits on the negative plates causing build up of large crystals (BAD). As the amount of large crystals build up on the plates, it will reduce the battery’s active material that is responsible for high capacity and low resistance.

I will do it later 2day before I rip out box and start wall..

Porn with big asses FTW

Got mines 2day.. sounds good and all but this subs really only shines on lows to me.. gonna build me a wall soon.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XtPJatvtmaE&feature=youtu.be

break in?

probable has ebay alternators

He is saying his is better, even though the power supply used is obviously different. I don't know, Kevin should probably just lay low for a minute and live off the nuthuggers.

This baby was my first! My older brother gave it to me for my first car, It was a beast, it doesn't work now tho I need to get it fixed

Running 2 10ks on a single alt is crazy......I ran mine that way for awhile, and 17 batts still isn't enough. Even with 2 alts now, it could use more batts

Dude, I try and give you credit but it always seems like your putting your foot in your mouth. Why are you even bringing up any other companies product in your thread? This is the classic Vs. type situation this site tries to avoid. And in addition to that the tests aren't even the same yet you use the term mirrored. The test of the other amp was done using one (1) battery that was not fully charged and on an charger. Even Steve says it at 3:52 into that video that the battery was the weak link in that test. here you have your amp on a bank of batteries........ and I wont even mention the wiring difference between the two test. yes, you finally ran the test the way it should, thank you! Now leave everyone else out of it and focus on your products and not how they compare to everyone else. The end users will have plenty of time to dissect all that. I don't have a dog in this fight either way, I don'y own SKAR and I don'y own the other brand. I'm just looking for straight forward testing of YOUR product.

I just wish there was an SMD digital vm. I like to see the numbers, not have to read the tiny subscript to see what that voltage is. The colors tell you when your voltage drop is bad and I get that. And thats cool. But if I was driving while testing some stuff out, I wanna be able to say my voltage dropped to 11.5 on that note or w.e the case. Not my voltage was orange.. Theres no way id be able to read that while driving. My only other gripe is the size. Say one day i was like f it ima get me one of those smd vm-1s ya know for another build or another car w.e .. its kinda big. woudlnt fit it the spaces one of those digital ones would or at least some of them. The vm-1 is cool no doubt. And yea it IS better than my cheap stinger that has finally started acting up ...after 5 years.. but stil. but i just wanna SMD version of the digital meter. awesome board of 30 meters though, thats awesome.

We will sell them with phillips; most of our customers prefer it. Allen head set screws are readily available at most fastener stores; one could replace them if desired.

Wooot!! This was my favorite build! I'm glad to see its getting some love again

i started off with a design that i wanted to see if it would work before i went all out. After hearing it and finding it quite loud for such a small port i decided i could make the box stronger and clean it up some. I also decided to make the port removable so i could take it out to tune higher for competitions. Also wanted the option of removing it, retuning the port itself and replacing without destroying the box. Heres how it went. a quick BEFORE: now heres the mods, butchered the old port out....

In case anyone wants to know, that white stuff is a elastomeric coating over the resin to smooth it all out.