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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/03/15 in all areas
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this month we are giving away some awesome Sundown Audio subs and a nice Sundown amp to go with them. I want a lot of contestants this month! So my plan is to do a REVERSE system of the month this time! Basically I HAVE the "System of the Month" in my hands and it will be shipped to the person who wins. Here is what you need. A Car. A Picture of you by the car you would put the system in if you win the prize. A membership to this forum, even BRAND NEW FRIENDLY MEMBERS are welcome! No post count required. Hopefully you will see this is a great place to hang out and you will stay! So join now, it is easy! use your facebook account to sign up in seconds If we reach 50 contestants, i will toss in $200 Store Credit out of my own pocket to any of the partners on this board for you to pick out a deck, crossover, or whatever else you need to enhance the already great prize (which you will soon see). Can someone with an already great system enter? YES! It can be the car you already have or maybe you standing next to your pop's car because you want him to have a system! So i am trying to reach my admin Nick aka Chode to get SOTM set up within the next day or so. I will post links here once he has it up and running. At the end of the month i will draw the winner! Does this sound like fun or what? STAY TUNED!!!7 points
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Morally.... I think it's bullshit. It's flat out misleading the uninformed consumer and tricking them into buying it. The whole "good for the money" thing is suspect too. Is it good for the money? Chances are that an amp with an inflated rating isn't going to be a quality piece of gear. So yeah... you get 1,000w for $100, but for how long? And with what sort of efficiency? Say you spend $100 on a "4,000w" amp that only does 1k. On the surface it seems like it's a good buy. BUT.. the thing is 40% efficient and drawing 2k worth of current. Your lights dim and now you buy another bullshit marketing piece- a cap. Now you're out $100 for the amp and $100 for the cap (or whatever those things cost) and your electrical is still lacking. You're straining your alt and digging an early grave for it. You're chuggin along in the 11's and now since the amp is low quality, it pops. So, what do you do? Repair it for $150? Nope, it goes in the garbage and you buy another one. $100+$100+$100... now you're $300 deep and still only have a crap 1k and subpar electrical. The new amp is still killing your factory 90A alt and it finally dies. Now you're stranded on the side of the road and hopefully didn't burn up anything on the car in the process. Hopefully you have roadside assistance, but if not... you have to pay for a tow. That's 150 bucks. Add another 150 bucks for a new factory alt. Now you're $600 in for a crap 1k and subpar electrical. But now you have a lifetime warranty on your AutoZone reman alt so that's good. You're back on the road and back wangin. But since you're the kind of guy who buys a "4,000w" amp for 100 bucks... you got the Install Bay "4awg" CCA kit and the grossly oversized fuse. It melts and you need a new fuse holder. Chalk up another 20 bucks. You figure it's good to go now and just wang out. You didn't spring for a dash mount voltmeter so you have no idea you're in the 10's when you're demo'ing and that melted fuse holder starts a fire under the hood because your 150A fuse is allowing way too much current for the crappy 8awg aluminum wire. Your car burns down and you call your insurance to file a claim. You tell them what happened and the insurance adjuster is a car audio guy and denies your claim because he knows you overfused subpar electrical with crap wire running a crap, inefficient amp. You spent $620 and lost a car... but at least the amp was "good for the money".3 points
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Does my daughter count? She absolutely loves music and is always asking me to turn it up or find the songs she likes. Would be awesome to get some subs and a amp as currently it is all stock. Would give me reason to buy the stuff for the front stage I've been eyeing up too. She picked the van too because she likes the power doors.3 points
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if brand X has an amp that has 1200 watts on the box but in reality it only does 298.......but is only $39 bucks, that is a GREAT deal for $39 bucks! Why wouldn't brand X just save some dignity and call it a 300 watt amp if it's still a great deal? An amp doesn't need to do twice the rated RMS to get my respect. It just needs to do what it claims. That's it. Seems like a reasonable request right?3 points
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What was the first subwoofer that you heard that made you fall in love with BASS? Of course mids and highs are ALWAYS important too but nothing brings back memories like the first time i heard the HEAVY low lows! Some of my firsts were "Realistic" 12's, "Bumper" 15's and of course it got serious when that guy in the Bronco II drove by with those insane woofers with the words "The Punch" on the dust caps.2 points
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Think it was something like 22 Image Dynamics in a walled Blazer with a clam shell. First sub was a Jensen 10inch in a tube from walmart for $80ish. Oddly enough this is the same model, its amazing how google images can take you back I had it hooked up to something like this, I cant remember the brand no more, but I know it had a microphone though, but it wasnt for karaoke. The next pair of woofers where some Pioneer 400 watt subs with the ohm logo and said pioneer or 400 watts in blue letters. I only got them because a neigbor gave me a old Q-logic bandpass box. These went in my moms aerostar with a old Orion cobalt 4030 or 3040 4channel amp that was beat to hell and back Edit: Took a while to find the exact model looking pioneers that I had These are the 2 12s I had And this was the q-logic box my neighbor gave me, along with a Pyrmid 15inch sub that had a clear cone but the tinsels where broken (first sub I ever fixed).2 points
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a typical battery like xs power or other Lead/acid all cant sustain high charge levels, definitely not near what the lithium can take in terms of amperage. Most trickle chargers are only like 2amp-10amp, and a fast charge is like 10-20amp or so. being able to sustain a 200+ amperage charge is pretty impressive. IIRC lead/acid can only take maybe 60 or so amps for max charge abilities, and even thats pushing it. if you had a huge alternator like most of us and no system it wouldnt be very beneficial to your batteries since they cant charge any faster still.2 points
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... there is also a LP2400 in the works. Yes, that's 400wpc x 2 at 4 ohms !!! Can't wait to see this on the amp dyno.1 point
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thanx to sundown and smd ill give it a shot1 point
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Definitely in on this one, thanks a ton Steve for your generosity.1 point
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It'll be fine since an alternator only puts out what is needed and not its full amperage all the time1 point
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I would say yes because the current will be split between all the Batts not just going to the one.1 point
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I do to...... Thanks SUNDOWN, and brother Meade for kickin in killer swag.......1 point
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good idea. generous of you.1 point
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No complete build needed? I'm in if thats the case. Even if I don't win it helps reach the 50 contestants1 point
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dude, i built some systems using those that SLAMMED! i'm not a hater! I heard those explodes in my boy Sprint n was stunned as well. people get hung up on brand names. I mean some brands do SUCK ASS i agree.! Sony used to be top of the line. Google Sony Mobile ES. That used to be the choice over any other brand next to the best Alpines for high end SQ. It's a shame they went xplod on us but what i am getting at is, it wasn't total junk. I would classify it as medium grade. If built properly, amps matched to the subs and gains set right....proper enclosure etc, they were pretty fuckin' nice! like any other medium brand would be if done right. That's the key. Install is 85% of the equation....maybe more.1 point
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If the amp is put on an AD-1 and I get to see what it actually does. It would make me feel much better about the purchase.1 point
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