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Showing results for tags 'help'.
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Alright guys I have an issue, I'm just not sure exactly where or what. Ill try to include as many details as possible. My current set up: 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee with "premium" speakers and amp. Details on that here Pioneer AVH-5500BHS bypassed Rockford Fosgate T1500.1BD 1 15" Fi BL @ 1Ohm 4GA power wire So to my issue. I've had this amp for about a year and a half now. About 6 months ago i noticed that occasionally I would hear a very high pitched humming and my amp wouldn't come on. This always happened when I started my car, i assumed that it was because the inside of my Jeep was hot so it went into protective mode. Yesterday it happened again, drove it home, left about an hour later (parked in shade) and it came right back on. This morning I was driving to work and it was working fine and suddenly my amp died. Got to work and checked the fuse, it was blown. I've never blown a fuse until today. Thought it was a fluke and put another in at lunch, it was hot inside my Jeep again (all black is HELL) and it did the humming so let it sit. about 30 mins later it came on when i stared my Jeep. Started to listen to a song and the moment I turned it up I blew another damn fuse! 2 in one day, what the hell! I come home disconnect my amp, check all of my wiring which i believe is good. Reconnect all of it, I have the power light come on the amp.... but no bass. Turn it off and restart my Jeep, and i get the humming, amp isn't on. I learned that the humming is coming from the 2 front speakers on the dash not the amp. Took out the fuse and put it back in, I went to check the power (not running but just power) and i have the light but once again no bass so i turn the Jeep on and now I'm here. Amp not working and humming constantly coming front 2 dash speakers. Does anyone have any ideas of what this could be? Bad wiring somewhere? Faulty factory amp interfering? Bad RF amp? I'm at a loss any help will be greatly appreciated. -
I just ordered two sundown audio SA 15 d4 subs. I have a CT sounds 2500.1 that i plan on powering them with. I have a 2001 Oldsmobile alero 4 door, I took out my back seats and plan on puting a box back there since theres no room in the trunk. The amps are going in the trunk along with the battery. I have been doing research trying to find some box designs online but could only find 2 box designs that are slightly to big to fit. So if anybody could help me with a box design i would appreciate it alot. My max dimensions for my back seat are 26 height, 21 depth, 34 width . recommendations are 3-4 cubes 35hz. i would like the box to be on the smaller side but not to small maybe like 3.5 cubes to each sub or 3.2. -
Hello, im from Belgium so sorry for my bad english, i hope you will understand me. im planning on buying 2 Sundown SA 12's and im going to run them on a Massive Audio N3 amp. and i need your help and thoughts, i know a little of how to calculate a box for the subs bud im not not that good in it. 1, i drive a Ford Fiesta mk6.5 and my car runs on 14.3/14.4V 2, Does the 12's going to be too big for my car? i want A LOT OF BASS, i love the very lows like decaf songs etc... 3, i will do the big 3 upgrade to my car bud i would love to keep the stock alt, is that possible? 4, will someone plz design a box for me for the 2 12's? i was thinking about a 30Hz tuning, subs facing up, and the port in the middle of the subs (also facing up). or would it be better to face the port to the back? my trunk dimension i can use are: 45cm height, 97cm wide, 45cm deep. I really hope you will help me out with this, i dont know that much of subs/amps/box making, i ony installed some entry lvl sub/amps an made 1 box for a kicker L7 12" so i dont have that much experiance. and if you agree to help me out with this, will you plz design a box in centimeters / millimeters with 18mm MDF? because here in belgium we only got 18 or 21 millimeter MDF. (not 19mm like 3/4inch and with torres calculator you only can use 19mm MDF) You don't know how much i would appreciate it if you would help me... Plz let me know something... grtz -
I am thinking about putting 1 12" Sundown ZV4 12" REV 2 in the trunk of my bmw 530i. Most likely going to face the box towards the seats since my seats fold all the way down. I will most likely get a 220 amp H/O alt from exsessive amperage, its about the biggest I could find from a notable company (singer, mechman, dc power, or anyone else that might be named has already been contacted and they wont make one for my car). I will probably have 2 extra batts (xs power d3100s probably) and a stock replacement, big 3 and a couple runs of 0 guage ran. My questions are, What size amp can I get away with here? I was hoping to go with a sundown SCV-3000d just to keep it in the sundown family. Would this be too much for a single ZV4 12? Reccomendations welcome... Would a straight back facing box or maybe a rear deck blowthrough get me better numbers? Would the elictrical I have be enough to keep this amp happy? Please help me out, all opinions are welcome. Any opinions on possible numbers? Any help is greatly appreciated. (No im not a "sundown fanboy" I actually just had a 15" FI BTL N2 on a BC3500d in my last vehicle, I just dont have the room for it in this one and wanted to try something new) -
so im getting ready to do a small budget build in my accord. nothing too crazy just a pair of the new skar audio ix 8's d2 on a jbl cs300.1 amplifier with all execution audio zero gauge plus kinetik powercell and sony 4 channel with pioneer coaxils and sony receiver. i plan on making the box around 1.8 cubes after speaker displacement. i plan on putting in an aeroport. my question is what size port should i get for my pair of 8's? i read a thread on here about ports but i just dont understand everything fully. i was thinking a 4 inch port would be enough for both but im not sure. any help is appreciated. also wondering what i should tune it at as ive never used 8's before and didnt know if tuning them in the mid 30's would sound good or not. i checked the skar website but they dont list box or tuning specs.
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I have one Rockford Fosgate 12" T0, model # T0D412, that I bought several months ago. I decided to just buy a pre fab ported box and there was always port noise at most lower frequencies. It has finally bugged me to the point where I'm building my own box. Any ideas or dimensions other than the one recommended in the manual? Since I only have one sub, I'd prefer a ported or 4th order bandpass type enclosure for the most bang for my buck.
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hey guys, will be picking my level 5 18s tommorrow afternoon and i am in need of a box design for my 2008 chevy hhr LT. im aiming for either a 3rd row wall or a complete wall, and i need the design pretty quick if possible. i will provide all necessary measurements/needed info if anyone can help me out. thanks again guys -dcsoundlabs26 -
I have 1/0 AWG running from battery to trunk, into a distribution block, two 4 AWG wires out, one running to each amp. 4 AWG ground from each amp, both grounded to the frame of my car. one remote turnon wire from my head unit to trunk, cut and spliced to run to both amps. rca from head unit to trunk, split and running to both amps. each amp is bridged running one sub. amps are Legacy LA2970BK. my problem is this: yesterday, everything worked. today, one amp works, but the other doesnt. it has power, the blue trim on top of the amp lights up, but no pwer to the sub and neither the power led OR the protection mode led light up. ive checked everything, all wires are good, changed the fuses, and now the other amp goes into protection mode randomly. im stumped.
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Box Helpers/Designers feedback appreciated, need some help on getting to set up my ports in the box calculator not sure if i'm doing it correctly, with pictures posted below please try to give me any pointers, if experienced in making boxes for DC 18"s would be even better. Type of music : will be used for daily driver, music (hip-hop, rap, dubstep, looking for some lows as well) Done a little design, first day probably 1hour in and was trying to mess around with sketchup, and came up with this design according to the way i did it, i have no idea how i could possibly mess it up, i needed to flip the screen completely upside down to make sure i had the box the right way and how you are facing it, that's the way it will go in my car. So here are my true dimensions Width - 32 Height - 22 Top/Bottom Depth - 22 Before i post the pics below, i think it has turned out pretty good, somewhere around 5.7-5.8is ft3, and tuning to about 30-32 hz Sorry for crappy lines, i didn't have the time at night to look up any tutorials because i think i would fall asleep on them working 6am-5pm mon-fri and its a late friday night. If you need all the details on the kind of wires i'll be running, amp, alternator, bat, etc. Private message me, if you can scoop something up for me probably make a nicer looking box or if there's a charge for it, please let me know. I work a lot and really busy on the weekends, so i won't have the time for a couple months to make myself a decent looking box.
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Ok, I know there are a lot of vendors here so I figured I'd ask. A good friend of mine recently came to me with a proposition. He inherited a good bit of inventory of aftermarket JDM parts (not sure on the specifics yet as this is in the baby steps phase) from his dad who ran a small eBay-based business with a few local sales here and there. The thing is, he wants to take it big and make this his living, and has offered me the opportunity to sort of spread the word and maybe buy into the company in it's infancy. First off, I'm one year out of high school and currently at a Community College majoring in Mechanical Engineering and working at a pos fast food joint making ~$600 a month. I'm at a point in my life where I'm wondering if what I'm doing will turn around and feed me later. I do live with my parents (and our relationship is stable, so I don't expect to get kicked out any time soon) but I buy all my own food (I have a special section in the fridge just for my stuff lol) in lieu of paying rent. That's a little personal lol but what I'm trying to get across is that I'm attempting to break into self-sufficiency. I would LOVE to break into the performance scene and be a big part of an independent business but sadly I have NO (nada, zero, zilch,) experience with owning a business. Honestly, I'm not really worried about that yet. What I want to know is...how difficult is it for those who have attempted it, done it, or seen it done? What does it take to be a mega-super-ballin ass eBay seller that maybe has an independent website and is a vendor in multiple places? Also...from a business standpoint, if we're in an empty market (meaning people drive a few hours away to get real performance parts) would it just be more profitable to have a brick and mortar shop that sells parts? I mean...being in the Car Audio community you see it all the time, some guy has a few bucks and calls up an OEM company or somebody starts up a little service that blows up like Toolmaker. I'm not asking for a "road map" per se, but I'm trying to judge how feasible this is. One thing I DO know is that money makes money. By that I mean...you sell enough parts on the side (which he's doing already), get a few decals printed up (which is easy), put together a demo car (94 Nissan 240SX, he already has started work on) and put your name out there and find ways to make your business grow but once again, how feasible is that? Am I in over my head here or is this a golden opportunity? -
Hello everyone. I'm a very very long time lurker and never had the need to make an account until now. Just glad I got to have a sick username lol. Basically I'm going to get someone to build a box for me for my new build (hopefully the last for a while) which consists of 2 sundown U 12's v1 d2s on a jp33 at .5. It will all be powered by a 280 singer and 48ah of glowe voltage LifPo4 cells (the new series 2). I've been buying the stuff for the build piece by piece when I can find a good deal and the only things I have left to get is the 2/0 welding cable and the Box. The build will be going into my daily which is a 2015 Honda accord sport so space is a challenge I have been facing since I need to be able to fold my back seat back up when I'm not bumping when people need to ride with me or I'm driving my son somewhere. Before anyone say anything about me building the box myself it would be out of the question. Trying to balance college, work, and family hasn't left me with much time to do much of anything and its going to be a struggle to find to time to get everything installed before the summer is over since I am taking summer classes. I'm particular about my sound so I want to make the guy a rough design or at least tell him what my goal is and how I want to position my box. My three options would be 8-inch aero subs forward port side facing drivers side, Slot with subs forward port foward on drivers side, or subs foward with port side facing drivers side. Take into consideration that my box will be scooted at the back of the trunk since I will be putting my amp and fans at the first part of the trunk. I have no idea which of the three would be the best for overall sound quality, bandwidth, Spl, etc. I would like to have some wind if possible, but that would be something in the back of my mind. When considering the best design, note that I would gladly sacrifice 2-3 db for a wide bandwidth and if similar results can be achieved with a slot I would rather not spend $100+ on a vera tune port. I mainly listen to rap, but when I play classic rock and sq songs, It would be nice for them to sound decent. Sorry about the long ass write up I just want to do it right the first time. Thank you in advance to whoever repsonds. -
well im in need of help about my amp ...... i picked it up for 50 bucks and it was not working right .. the right channel was making a buzz sound but left worked but was distorted so i opened her up and everything looked new still ....i mean new no dust on fan nothing. caution sticker still on never opened. after opening there are no clamps that hold the fet's and what not down the cover did that so 2 i THINK power fet's blew not being clamped to the heat sink....... so im trying to figure out what was causing the fet's to get hot that not being clamped to the heat sink blew them.......... PICS....... any help will be nice. i'd like to fix my self fet's that blew when i opened up they where good till i powered it up open then they smoked and blew they are the top 3rd and 8th from left amp amp again side other side now GUT'S gut's caution sticker before i broke it
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I recently screwed myself out of a deal and need a new amp. I've been looking around and came across the Sundown SAZ-2500D. (I have an Orion HCCA 12). I just wanted to know what the forum thought about this amp on this sub. I bought a nice sub and I don't want a cheap amp that's why I choose Sundown for an amp, I plan to do this the right way.
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i have 4 mofo 15s, i would like to pull some decent numbers and keep it an every day driver. the box will be 22.86 cubic ft, 220 in. port area, tuned to 35 hz. all will be double thick 3/4 in mdf, with bolt bracing. subs and port up port. port by back window or up front? will it work correctly with the subs i have? love to hear your input. new to this big of a set up.
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i wanna buy a good amp to load 2 12" subs so i did my research and came out with these amps that will fit my subs RMS or a little bit more powerful and i can pay for so here what i came out with : Power Acoustik : 1) Demon D1-3000DB http://www.poweracou...s-D1-4000D.html 2) BAMF2600/2 http://www.poweracou...amf-2600-2.html PLANET AUDIO : RXD1400 1,900 WATT http://www.audiosavi...RXD1400+RB.aspx Crunch: PZA2000.1 2000 Watt http://www.audiosavi...RXD1400+RB.aspx DB DRIVE: PD2000.1 2000 Watt http://www.audiosavi...D2000.1+RB.aspx Hifonics: 1)Brutus BRZ1700.1 http://www.audiosavi...BRZ1700.1D.aspx 2)ZEUS ZRX1500.1D http://www.ebay.com/...#ht_3575wt_1344 3)HFI1500D http://www.audiosavi...m/HFI1500D.aspx plz this is so important to me i need advice thanx
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Alright guys I have another question that's gonna make me look like a car audio noob. My Dad likes me to explain everything I do to my system and the reason why I'm doing it. I was explaining the Big 3 and he wants to know why you run a power wire from the positive of the battery to the alternator. I couldn't even answer it. If you could tell me why please do. Thanx -
Here's the run down so you'll can give me the best opinion. I drive a 2006 F-150 XLT 4.6 (V8) crew cab. Stock 125 amp alt. I plan on replacing my battery soon and I'm gonna try and convince the 'rents' to buy a better battery than the ones you buy from Ford. I'm tore between getting a XS Power and Kinetik battery. I have no idea what size I need. So your opinion on what size and brand would be wonderful. This isn't 'vs.' thread just a 'suggestion and opinion thread' since I know you'll hate the 'vs.' threads. I also am about to rebuild my system which be consisting of an Orion HCCA 12.2 with 2500 watts pushing towards. I added that just in case it might change your suggestion on size. Sorry for this being long just want the basic run down to get the best opinions. Thanx!
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So I think this might be a little noobish but I still havent done the big 3, I know I know, It should have been done a long time ago. Anyway, Im going to do it next week but I am extremely nervous about it for some reason. Does anyone have any pointers for me? and Exactly what I need to do it. I know 1/0 gauge ofc wire but what else? Has anyone thats done it on a 2002 ford explorer know the best place for the ground? ahhh, help! thanks guys. -
Hi, I recently purchased and installed my first sub system: Kenwood 9105D Mono-Amp @ 1800w max / 900 rms(2ohm) Dual Kenwood 12" w3013ps subs (bridged @ 2 ohms, 450rms per sub(400rms-1200w peak)) w/ 34-300 freq. response, recommended ported enclosure @ 2 cft tuned to 34hz 4 Gage power wires, 12 gage speaker wire, gold plated terminals etc Got most of it on sale, cost about $350 for everything from sonic electronix and crutchfield. The subs are in a Sound Ordnance dual 12 inch ported enclosure @ 1.63 cft per chamber, tuned at 33hz The subs sound too high pitched of bass, it's LOUD and shakes most of the car, it just doesn't sound quite right, I believe it has to do with the enclosure size and bad box tuning but I wanted to make sure, that's why I'm asking here. So my question is this, is the bass problem the size of the box, the tuning, or the high freq. response of the subs? or a mix of some of these. Right now the subs don't play below 40hz very well which I'm sure is because of the tuning and size of the box. I'm more than willing to build a box for these but I'm not sure if it's worth it if the subs still wont touch anything below 34hz, I see a lot of people here with boxes tuned to 30hz or less and I'm wondering if I should tune that low even though my response is only 34hz. Should I just buy new subs? Most of my music doesn't hit lower than 34hz but still, I want some ground pouding bass every once in a while, can't really afford anything much bigger right now with my financial situation. Any info would be helpful I'm just looking to soak up some data since I'm a beginner, a lot of the topics here are very helpful. Thanks! -
Ok so i fix allll my wiring and stuff and i a listen to music. then everything stops in the back. i got and look and nothings making noise but everytheres on but not playing. so i take it to my audio store and nothings wrong. so i rewire and i notice when i plug in my RCA cable in the little green power light comes on but the words jenson light up as if it were on. all my fuses are fine and wires are plugged in right.. and one knoe whats wrong?... im stumpped -
I've decided on buying a Fi Q 15, I just need help on finding an amp that would be best suited for it. I have a Treo amp that pushes 1000 watts that i'll use to break it in.
